Thursday, October 11, 2012
Wrap around moisture from a departing low pressure system brought light rain to much of the region last night - much to the surprise of this weather watcher and the boys that do this for a living at NOAA. Just goes to show you that sometimes Mother Nature has the last word. Left behind, we have more onshore flow today, low clouds and fog. Winds are light, but blowing enough to make a mess of things. We have more swell on the way. Mid period west northwest swell moves in tomorrow and Saturday. Should be good for head to a bit overhead surf at north facing breaks. Direction 270-290. Next storm behind this - further out in the Pacific (see chart) will bring waves for Sunday thru early next week. This will feature more mid period swell (11-14 second bands) from 280-300. Probably at it's peak will feature more overhead waves at good north facing breaks. High pressure will build back in again over the weekend and it's going to shove the storm track way north. So we should not have any more rain, could see nice conditions by the weekend and into early next week. Wind forecast is CALLING for light morning winds, but definitely check it each day as the forecast could be a bit optimistic. However, after today it looks to me like winds should be pretty light each morning. Plenty of surf, check the winds. Cya in the water.
at 8:19 AM