UPDATED FORECAST 12-17 - Brief break, then stormy, XL Surf

 New, large northwest swell filled in overnight - buoys showing 9@17 seconds around SF, 12 @17 much further north (swell angle 296 to 300).   Winds are very light out of the south.  It's going to stay large most of the week (above 9-10 ft) and then going XL this weekend when a long period, powerful northwest swell comes in around 17ft@17 seconds.   This is a result of Gulf Low just getting going which is going to create some of the biggest buoy reads in the N Pac we've seen in a long while.   If the models are accurate - forecasting swells around 60ft! out in the N Pac when the storm is at it's peak.  It's a monster size storm.   Rain stays away until late in the week and then CA looks to get another good pounding through next weekend with a possible atmospheric river set up - especially Bay Area to the north.  Winds will be good for the next few days and then turn strongly south for the duration of the next storm event.   Cya in the water.  

Updated Forecast 12-6

High pressure continues to dominate the region leaving us high and dry.  Changes on the horizon for far nor cal this weekend and then for everyone else by next weekend.   Rainy pattern will return by mid month.  Tsunami madness/alerts yesterday after the quake - which were warranted given the size of the quake and proximity to our Coast.  Had that been a quake with vertical motion as opposed to horizontal motion (it was on a strike/slip fault) - a tsunami would have most certainly been generated.    I  see people bitching about all the warnings etc today online and elsewhere - the system did was it is supposed to do.  But by all means next time we have a big quake in the ocean go stand on the beach.   As for the surf - mid period northwest swell in the water this morning - 6-7@13 seconds.  Swell builds Sunday as a new, bigger northwest swell comes in at 11@14 seconds - staying big Monday into Monday night - gradual fade into Tuesday but still fun 7@14.   Winds ramp up a bit through Sunday then go back to light and variable to start next week.   Cya in the water.