UPDATED FORECAST 9-28

 Our first more significant northwest swell is hitting the outer buoys and will fill in overnight.  West Oregon buoy peaked around 3am at 19 ft 11 seconds.   Papa Buoy earlier at 19ft 13 seconds.  This is all from a storm system in the Gulf of Alaska that is now bringing some rain to parts of Oregon and far Northern CA (Crescent City).   Swell will peak Thursday/Friday at 8-10 ft @ 11-12 seconds.   Certainly enough to bring some winter spots to life for a time.  Winds are light today but unfortunately going to turn north to northwest strongly later today and last until Sunday.  It's officially Fall, so that means early season storms heading into the Great Basin and offshore/north winds behind it.   The usual set up and that's what we will have.   Spots that can handle that wind direction will be cleanest.  Swell will rapidly fall Saturday on.   Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 9-17 - FIRST NW SWELL ON THE WAY....

Early season storm door is open as the remnants of Typhoon Merbok about to make its presence known along the West Coast with rain, wind, mountain snow and swell.   Weather wise - rain will start far north overnight and spread throughout the Bay Area Sunday.   Heaviest rain will be in the north bay, probably 1-3 inches depending on location - lighter amounts further south you go but still pretty decent for a September rain event.   Winds will switch to south overnight and be quite strong Sunday into Monday - then lighter winds Tuesday/Wednesday.   We have two small souths in the water - one fading out today and another set to rise overnight - probably maxing out at 2ft 17-18 seconds.  Monday swell from the remnants of Typhoon Merbok start to show at 2-3 ft at 20 seconds from 308 deg.    Swell will be 3ft at 18 seconds Tuesday into Wednesday.   We will see a bump of northwest wind swell at the same time, shorter periods - 9-10 seconds - overall good northwest breaks will probably see waves head high and better at times - smaller the further south you go.   **Note, the typhoon swell was heavily shadowed by the Aleutians - so it will be quite lully at times.   That combined with the northwest wind swell, sw swell might make for some interesting conditions at a lot of breaks.   So, some exciting days ahead with the weather and waves!  Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST SEP 9

 Steep angled (330) larg-ish north wind swell making its way from north to south this morning - 9.3@11 seconds north of Bodega, smaller towards Bay Area, but size should increase through the morning.  Strong south swell is fading out today while a new swell overtakes and reinforced through the weekend.  This next series of south swell won't be as big as this last one - look for deepwater heights in the 2 to 2.5ft range - from 189-194.   No real storms on the horizon yet in the N Pac but keeping a watch.   Winds look strong from the northwest today especially northern outer waters - fading into the weekend with light winds forecast through Sunday.  Cya in the water.  

SEPTEMBER 1!

Welcome to the 2022/2023 surf season in Northern California.  You made it through!  While things aren't in full swing yet in the N Pac, watching the satellite feeds over the past couple weeks it's showing an active pattern already with low pressure systems swinging out of the Bering Sea into the Gulf.  In fact we've already had a few minor Gulf wind swells - with one in the water right now at 4ft @11 seconds, and another due in starting Saturday of a similar size.   Background south swells through the holiday weekend but on the smaller side - 2ft or so with the best of the group starting on Monday.   Northwest winds through the weekend strongest out waters - with the "heat dome" over us could see lighter winds nearshore each morning and late afternoon/early evening.  You've probably read or heard we are heading into a triple dip La Niña this fall/winter - right now that forecast is suppose to show La Niña fading out by December as we move to a state called ENSO Neutral - which means exactly what it says - which should be equal chances for normal rainfall/weather - or not!   We could really use a wet winter around the West, but without a clear El Niño signal anytime soon - unlikely to happen.   That said - for SF north - especially Sonoma County to the Oregon border - expect similar rainfall amounts to last season perhaps more.  That's it for now.  Cya in the water.