Decent run of south/southwest swell underway this week - hovering around 2ft at 17 seconds 215. These swells originated to the east of NZ and moved north some which always increases the size of the swell inbound. The bigger of the two swells due to arrive late week - probably overnight Thursday for long period forerunners and filling in through the day on Friday to 3ft at 17 seconds from 215. Swell should stick around through the weekend. Now for the winds - northwest gales continue today and will lighten up through the week and finally turning light north on Friday, then strongly out of the south over the weekend as we have a late season, very strong storm system that is due to hit Nor Cal over the weekend bringing rain, wind to areas mostly north of Santa Cruz. So plenty to ride just gotta hit the right spots with the winds. Cya in the water!
Tuesday, May 31, 2022
Wednesday, May 18, 2022
THAT'S A WRAP ON THE N PAC FOR THE SEASON....S PAC BUSY.....
N Pacific swell machine has shut down for the season - but windswell will remain the primary source of any kind of waves for the foreseeable future with high pressure in control and the gradient between that and low pressure over the Central Valley/Southwest creating brisk winds out over the ocean and very cold water temps. Pt Arena showing water temp of 46.8 this am! Chilly. Southern Hemisphere is active and while there are no major south swells on the horizon we do have a long run of smaller south swell in the water now. Swell will hover around 2ft at 17 seconds from 190 - gradually fading out by Sunday. NW winds will blow quite hard for the next seven days and beyond - in fact probably just keep blowing until the fog bank sets up for summer or we get into September - ha. So - seek out your protected wind spots that like south swell, grab a floaty board and you can ride. Cya in the water.
Friday, May 6, 2022
SOUTHERN HEMI AWAKE, NORTH PAC NOT DONE YET
Swell in the water from every direction right now - new southwest is 2.9@20 seconds and the northwest is holding well at 8@15 seconds. Southwest direction is around 205 - NW is 295 - both pretty ideal directions for N Cal breaks. Winds have trended south for the most part due to the low pressure systems brushing N Cal - with rain from the Sonoma County/Mendocino County line north to Oregon. Heavier rain further north you go. Looks for things to stay unsettled through about next Wednesday with on and off light bouts of showers. Swell will remain in the water from both hemispheres for the most part - changing some day to day. Winds will be highly variable depending on frontal passages and Northwest winds blowing behind each front. So keep an eye on the winds, plenty of swell around and options abound. Cya in the water.