PLENTY OF SWELL ON TAP, CLEAN CONDITIONS

Old west/northwest swell fading out this am at 7ft 11 seconds, new swell loading up at far northern buoys - 9-10 ft at 20 seconds.   That swell will fill in all day and be solid by tomorrow morning.   Winds are offshore pretty much up and down the coast as high pressure rules the day.  No rain in sight through most of next week until the pattern breaks down potentially next weekend.  Until then, look for clean conditions especially for AM sessions with swell gradually fading by around next Wednesday.   Beach breaks should be pretty fun from Monday to Wednesday.   Cya in the water.

ANOTHER BIG WEST SWELL LOADING UP....

Hope you enjoyed the Winter Solstice.  Break between big swells today - deep water around 7.5-8 ft at 12 seconds from 300 plus.  Break will be short-lived as the Papa Buoy is already showing deep water swell at 19ft 14-15 seconds.   That will arrive tonight and be in full force tomorrow, along with a new round of rain showers lasting through Christmas.   On and off rain, wind, lots of swell.   There will be moments if you pick your windows wisely.  Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and cya in the water.  

WHOA! BIGGEST SWELL OF THE YEAR INBOUND THIS WEEKEND

As if it's not been big enough the past two weeks.....Large storm system with a dynamic fetch (means the winds are moving at a high speed in the same direction of an already created swell) all pushing east towards the West Coast - creating a huge swell event for Sunday night and Monday.   Satellite pass yesterday revealed seas in excess of 51ft and the storm was only 1500 miles from the Coast.  NOAA is predicting long period swell of 18-20ft (Bay Area), 20-23 ft (North Coast) with extremely long periods of 19-21 seconds.  Deepwater breaks like Mavericks and others will be in excess of 50ft on Monday.   We still have large swell until then, staying mostly above 10ft until Sunday night.   Storm door is open as well, quick moving storm today and tonight - break Saturday and then another quick moving system Sunday.  Winds don't look great - going to stay mostly south to southwest through Sunday night.   Might see light northwest winds for Monday (Bay Area), but winds on the far North Coast should remain west to southwest.  Monday should certainly be one to go and witness.  Be cautious and alert if you're near the beaches.   Cya in the water.

WEEKEND FORECAST

Long period swell continuing this morning at 8-9ft at 18 seconds from 300.   Still quite solid, but down a few notches from yesterday.  Picture is from the North Sonoma Coast as lines marched in.
Swell will continue to fade into tomorrow, but still be 6-8 at 15 seconds.   One more day of high pressure and then two new storm systems arriving affecting our weather until Monday.   The first one this evening will mainly affect the region north of Cape Mendo.   The second, Saturday night into Sunday should bring rains region wide - with lesser amounts south of Sonoma.  Winds will stay east to southeast today and southeast tomorrow.   South winds ramp up Saturday night through Sunday.   Swell will crank back up Sunday night through Monday - back in the 10-12 ft range (deepwater).  So no shortage of swell for the foreseeable future - just keep an eye on the winds.   Cya in the water.