UPDATED FORECAST 11-25

Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.   Early this morning winds are fairly light and northwest swell is 5.9 at 12 sec from 310.  Look for light winds today and a good part of Saturday before the next series of storms takes aim at Central/Northern CA.   In addition, building northwest swell Saturday night - 4-6 ft at 19 seconds, will build even more on Sunday at 10-13ft at 17 sec, and Monday jumping up to 13-15 ft at 14-15 sec.   Strong south winds will ramp up Saturday night and blow all day Sunday, switching to southwest direction at 20-30kts.   Winds will shift to the northwest on Monday behind the front and blow fairly strong at 20-30kts.   Rain on and off from Saturday night into Monday.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - 11-11

Super fun late season south/southwest swell hitting our shores - 3.2 at 15 sec @190.  North Pac swell is 4ft at 10 sec from 305.   Look for this south swell to stick around through Monday night - staying in that deepwater zone of 3ft as period drops.   Northwest swell will stay small (ideal for not harassing the vibe of the south) - at least thru Sunday - then the northwest will jump up to around 8ft at 12 seconds on Monday night.   Most likely to remain elevated through next Thursday as as series of Pacific storms come ashore - first one late Sunday, another mid week and then another next weekend.   Winds will fluctuate between south as front come onshore and west to northwest as they pass.   So, plenty of swell - just check the winds and know your spots and you'll find good waves. Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 11-6/STORMY PATTERN

We are in between systems today and tomorrow while a large low pressure system is dropping out of the Gulf of Alaska, due to hit us starting Wednesday and Thursday.   This will bring a period of very strong south turning west winds, larger southwest storm swell.   In the meantime, smaller west swell

around today and Tuesday - deepwater 4-6 ft at 14 seconds, with fairly light north winds forecast at 5-15kts.   After the mid week storm, winds and swell should decline as we head into Friday.    Unsettled pattern looks to continue on and off through next weekend as the Pacific is active for early November.   Keep an eye on the winds and you'll find some good windows for surf.   Cya in the water.