EXTRA LARGE SWELL FOR TUES/WED

Huge storm winding up tonight in the North Pacific. Impressive winds are evident. This storm will create our largest swell event so far this fall - with deep water wave heights on order of 15-20 ft this coming Tuesday/Wednesday. Nice weather should accompany this swell event. Sunny skies, light winds forecast, perhaps even some offshore flow. Before then, look for fun size waves at nw facing breaks with light morning winds. Get out and get some. cya in the water.

Papa Buoy 33ft at 14 seconds last evening

Large swell developing out 600 miles - Papa buoy showing some impressive readings overnight (20-30ft). That is our inbound swell for Friday/Saturday - being whipped up by this offshore storm which is slowly making it's way towards the coast. Rain has been delayed some, as the storm as been running into drier air in the lower levels of the atmosphere. Should finally spread rain over the Bay Area Friday with showers likely on Saturday. Winds right now aren't bad - blowing southeast. Shorter period windswell is in the water - also created by the storm offshore. Look for ENE winds on Friday in the morning - turning south for Saturday/Sunday. Should be plenty of size on tap Friday and Saturday at nw facing breaks. Check the winds. cya in the water.

8@12 from 310 - Rain inbound

Big nw swell winding down today. Winds are offshore this morning. Storm is inbound and will spread rain over our region Thursday into Friday - with scattered showers all weekend as another system moves through. Look for variable winds Thursday morning and then ENE winds on Friday morning. So not horrible. However, on the weekend winds will blow south both days as the flow aloft remains in a southerly direction. Swell will climb back up in the double overhead range (6-10ft deepwater) by Friday - and then slowly fade over the weekend. Thursday/Friday mornings could be ok if the winds stay light. Plenty of swell sticking around - watch the weather systems and winds via the weather links on this blog and you'll find some spots. cya in the water.

12@14FT

As forecast, large WNW swell hitting this morning. Bigger to our north - on order of 18-20 ft - light nw winds on it - so making a mess of things at nw facing breaks. Better conditions at sheltered spots. Next few days will feature dry weather, flow will be light nw or even ne at the surface. Swell will stick around Tuesday and start to wind down. Another large storm is taking aim at us for Thursday to Saturday - with more rain, wind and probably a large swell train to arrive after the main rain event. So next 48 hrs will probably be your best window to get some surf. Cya in the water.

LARGE SWELL MONDAY/RAIN ALL WEEKEND

Deep water swell running 6ft at 12 from 300 this morning and 1.8 at 17 from 195. Large and powerful storm is lining up for arrival late Saturday/through Sunday - with a plume of moisture stretching all the way across the Pacific to Asia. Depending on where this storm comes ashore will determine how much rain we receive. North Bay looks to be the prime target with 2-4 inches of rain forecast. This storm is going to whip up a powerful West swell - which will come in on Monday - with deepwater heights in excess of 15ft. The first real significant swell of the Fall. We will have south winds right through Sunday changing to west/then northwest for Monday and Tuesday. A real messy start to the week. A brief break - and then looks like next week around Wednesday we'll have another series of storms hitting. Old Man Winter knocking early on our door. Keep an eye on the winds - know your spots and you might find some waves. Plenty of swell on tap for the next 5-7 days - just big changes in size day to day. cya in the water.

Rain and swell inbound

Sunset pic from the Mexican Coast last week.....but that seems so long ago now....We have inbound storms for Thursday to Sunday - so i would say get out and enjoy Wednesday if you can - probably the last nice wind/weather day we'll have. Onshore flow will pick up on Thursday - while the weekend is looking wet as a strong system comes ashore with rain very likely in the North Bay - lesser amounts south. Winds will veer ssw/to west from Thur/Sun - but wind speeds might not be that strong allowing for some sessions. Have to wait and see. Look for decent size 7-9ft from 15-13 seconds (290 to 300) from Thur/Sat - good for well overhead and bigger at nw facing breaks. Tracking a potentially extra large swell event for Monday/Tuesday (deepwater 17-18ft) but this is just a model forecast right now and only worth watching for confirmation as the weekend comes up. Tomorrow am for sure - get out and get some - mid period windswell in the water at 6ft 11-12 seconds. cya in the water.

Updated forecast Week of 10-18

Back from a week in southern Mexico chasing sw swells. Good times for sure. Around these parts very active storm pattern throughout the Pacific Basin will continue to send pulses of mid period wnw swells our way for shoulder to head high surf through Wednesday. Then, look for a larger wnw swell to charge the coast late Wednesday through Friday with deep water swell in the 6-10 ft range. Right now more storms and swells look to line up until the end of October. I'll update more mid week. Winds look light to variable for am sessions this week but probably onshore in the afternoons. Wind patterns are a bit unpredictable this week with so many low pressure systems offshore. Also looking at perhaps our first strong rain event of the fall for next weekend - will update that around Wednesday. Check the winds and know your breaks and you might find some fun waves this week. Cya in the water .

Weekend Forecast - Fun Surf, Nice conditions

New mid period swell filling in tonight - deep water at 3-4 ft at 11 from 300-320. Look for size to slowly increase over the next couple days - probably biggest Sunday/Monday when size at nw facing breaks will be overhead on the sets. Weather/wind pattern looks pretty nice, northeast to calm winds in the mornings. Warmer temps at the coast. Really ideal Fall conditions coming up. **i am off to Mexico to chase next weeks inbound SW swell action - so i won't update this blog until Monday Oct 18. Have a great weekend/week ahead - cya in the water.

Updated Forecast - wk of 10-4

Solid northwest swell continues this morning - 8 ft at 14 sec from 305. Winds unfortunately are howling out of the nw as we have a strong low pressure system descending upon us. Water temps tumbling some, down to 53 now. We have a slight chance of showers through mid week as the aforementioned low will drop down and park itself just south of Monterey for most of the week as a closed cut off low. This could bring us some southeast to offshore winds mid week. Look for strong swell to continue through the period from the n/nw and also a series of decent late season southwest swells as well. Plenty of swell on tap - just check the winds each day and know your breaks and you might get lucky. The pattern we're in this week is extremely unpredictable right now with the cut off low. They tend to have a mind of their own. One thing is for certain - we have plenty of surf. cya in the water.