South on the way for early June

Morning - not much relief in sight until around June 4th - that's when a nice size south should start showing and run through Jun 7th. Between now and then, windswell looks to be what we have with sw to w fog winds each day right on through the week. Could see a bit less wind by the weekend. We'll have some background south Friday through Sunday as well - but nothing to get that excited about. The swell next week is certainly one to keep an eye on - if it comes together as promised and doesn't get shredded by NW winds as it comes around Pt Conception - could be some fun waves. I will not be updating the blog 5-31 to 6-7 as I will be off the NW Coast of Mainland Mexi surfing! Will post pics the following week. Pic today is a buddy emerging from a warm Mexican barrel two summers ago. cya in the water.

Good time for golf

Both South and North Pacific locked down in high pressure mode. The No Pac is basically asleep now for summer. Windswell will continue to be the best hope we have for swell. Could see an uptick in South swell by the end of the week, but whatever does come through is going to remain very small. Winds look problematic most of the week with south to west fog winds. Long range models don't show anything of interest in sight. Could see a pattern change down under sometime mid next week - but right now that's just the models guessing. The good news - La Nina is basically dead in the Pacific. The atmosphere needs to stablize for the next couple months and warm water has returned to the East Pacific. We still have a very cold pool of water off the California/Pac NW Coasts - from months of north winds and high pressure - but that too should start to ease as we move through summer. If things continue, we'll possibly see good storm development in both North and South Pacific for Fall of 2009. cya in the water.

Farewell to a Friend

We said goodbye to a great friend yesterday. Our Bernese Mtn Dog Brady - she would have been 12yrs this August. She was brave, kind, smart, loving and the best friend to both myself and my wife. Our lives were better with her around and she will be deeply missed around the house. If you own a pet, give them an extra hug today and appreciate their presence in your life.

Small South/Windswell - Good time to grab a fish!

Very small/steep angle (180+) south filling in tonight - getting hammered by the north winds and windswell down thru Point Conception. Look for maybe 2 ft at 17 sec tomorrow and then swell will fade out on Sunday. Windswell really looks to rule the day for the next week - with N/NW winds pretty much everyday. Not much else doing. Some cool fishes posted here. Top photo - 5.8 Hydrodynamica Simmons and 5.8 Larry Mabile keel fin fish. Bottom photo - 5.8 Jeff Mccallum 2nd generation Simmons with keels. Ah summer, always a nice time to test pilot some new shapes. Makes the most of the mush - but these boards fly if you can land some clean face time. Cya in the water.

Solid Late Season West

Evening - solid West swell starting to show tonight - deepwater at Pt Reyes is 5 at 14 from 290 (Pt Arena is 12ft at 13 sec.) Size will continue to increase overnight with well overhead to double overhead sets at the best deep water spots on Monday. Size sticks around Tuesday (all energy from 270-300), perhaps drops a bit and then another reinforcing shot builds back in on Wed for more well overhead and double overhead sets. SE winds forecast on Monday as the next slug of Pacific moisture moves ashore. Light S winds 5-10kts on Tuesday, and S 5-15kt on Wed. Look for a return to NW winds on Thursday and Friday as high pressure builds back in to the East Pacific and the pressure gradient tightens up. Make the best of this West swell - could be the last one we see for a while with some push. cya in the water.