UPDATED FORECAST 11-1 - LARGE OUT THERE

 Yesterday morning the PAPA Buoy peaked with a reading of 20ft@17 seconds - biggest so far in this early season of north swells.  This morning, Pt Arena showing 19ft@16 seconds.   A very large, N Pacific Low has occupied the Northeastern Pacific for a few days now and will continue to send large waves to the West Coast.   Very low pressure combined with strong winds - all of it moving in our direction creates a very dynamic wave scape in the ocean.  Ongoing rain and mountain snow for most of N Cal through at least Saturday, then the skies clear, winds turn more offshore and we dry out.   Winds will really start to nuke on Sunday and then we will also have a very large steep angled north wind swell in the water too.   So if you like big, next few days for you.   Otherwise, find spots that are sheltered from all this massive energy and you'll probably score.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 10-23

 Long period late season south swell filling in along the coast this morning - deepwater swell running around 3ft@18 second from around 180.  Swell will gradually start to fade tomorrow but stick around until Saturday - when energy from the Northwest takes over again with a new West swell filling in during the day at 8ft@12 seconds.   Winds are forecast to go off shore the next few days - then light south by Saturday as a weak storm system moves in on the stubborn high pressure ridge over the weekend.   Conditions may then give way next week to more unsettled conditions with low pressure dropping down along the West Coast.    Until then, decent conditions with swells from the south and north - fall in CA.   Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 10-14 - XL SWELL INBOUND

 Tracking a large northwest swell for tomorrow - peaked at the Papa Buoy around 12-13 ft @15-16 seconds early this morning.   Long period forerunners hitting Cape Mendo Buoy now with 17sec energy as well as early signals at Pt Arena.   Swell fills in tonight and will be solid to start the morning tomorrow most likely 8-10ft at 15 seconds.  Swell angle 298-302 degrees.   Low pressure poised to hit the Northwest and drag a cold front through CA Tuesday night through Thursday - best chances for rain north of Sonoma County again.  High pressure builds in strongly as that storm plows into the Great Basin setting up a strong offshore wind event - typical of our Fall - into the weekend with north winds and a big jump in the northwest wind swell - peaking around 10ft @10 seconds Thursday into Saturday.   Fall is here.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 10-8 - N PAC WAKING UP

 Mid period northwest swell in the water today after long period forerunners came in yesterday afternoon. Swell is 7@14 seconds from 310 - bigger north of Bodega Bay.   Swell fades late, will be replaced by mid size wind swell for the middle of the week and then another moderate size northwest swell rolls in for the weekend with a chance for rain Friday night/Saturday morning.  Best chance of rain Bay Area north, with some rain expected from Western Sonoma County to the CA/OR border.  October heat wave is over and to be replaced by temps that feel more like fall.   Looking ahead to the weekend - potential for a decent size late season south looking more likely and further out, good pulse of northwest swell potentially for next week.   Jet stream is active and steaming off of Japan in the Gulf of Alaska, just need to get some troughs moving in that energy to create more swell.   The pattern is decent however.   Winds don't look too bad the rest of the week - typical for October.  Cya in the water.  

XL Swell North, Smaller South

Large swell continues to impact spots north of Bodega Bay, buoys reading 12-13ft@11-13 seconds from around 310,  It looks like most forecasts have missed how big this swell would be.  It's actually two swells combining, a new Gulf Swell at around 6 ft@12 seconds and bigger wind swell.   Surf looks to stay on the larger side through the weekend and into early next week.  Winds are not ideal, mix of south to southwest wind for Bay Area and north to northwest wind Jenner to Cape Mendocino.  High pressure will be the dominant weather system for the next week - with much warmer temps again and possible offshore winds early next week.   Out in the Pacific, season is in swing with weather systems coming across the upper latitudes.   We remain at the tail end of our dry season but that will change later in October.  Plenty to ride the next few days, just keep an eye on the winds.  Cya in the water.