Wednesday, April 2, 2025

APRIL

 Welcome to April - the time of cold water, northwest winds, chunky wind swell and south swells.   On cue, we have northwest winds and chunky wind swell - left over from a late season storm that dumped rain on CA, snow in the mountains and ushering in a northwest wind regime that will most likely dump water temps.   North of SF today wind swell is around 9-10 @10-11 seconds, 300 plus degrees.  Small south swells to move through the waters over the next day or so but will be buried by the winds.  Longer term seeing more activity down off New Zealand and Australia so there is hope for more southern swells as we head into the month.   N Pac is still active and not quite done with us - more rain coming in this Sunday and Monday (staying north of the Bay Area) - and still some low pressure systems on the charts that will send in late season swells.   All n all, not horrible, enjoy the windy small season coming upon us.  Cya in the water.  

Friday, March 21, 2025

UPDATED FORECAST 3-21, WELCOME TO SRING

Spring has arrived, but the N Pac still has something to say about how long winter swells will continue.  New swell is in today running 11@12 seconds north of Bodega, smaller everywhere else and So Cal.   Far Nor Cal getting hit with another atmospheric river through Saturday, then we all warm up starting Sunday into about Tuesday before the storm door opens again for potentially a very wet end to March and beginning of April.  New long period swell will run in Saturday into Sunday - peaking about 8-9@16, gradual fade into Tuesday and then another smaller long period west swell starts to show Wednesday of next week - 7@17.   All these swells are pretty west in direction as has been the case almost all winter.   280 to 300 degrees.   Since it is March, expect light to moderate northwest winds through the next five days or so - fluctuating some day to day depending on the location of low pressure to our north and high pressure overhead.  Plenty of swell around, cya in the water. 


 

Tuesday, March 11, 2025

MARCH

 Winter makes a return this week into next as a series of strong storms come ashore bringing rain, snow, wind and chaotic swell through the period.   It will be hard to find some clean surf after tonight, even though there will be plenty of swell in the water from multiple swell trains due to impact CA into next week.   Lingering West Swell continues today into Thursday at 7-8ft @13 seconds.  On Thursday, new swell will jump up to 13@15 seconds and gradually fade into the weekend at 10@12.   Swell direction this week around 293-298 degrees.   Strong south winds mid week and again over the weekend, periods of lighter north to west wind in between the two major storms Wednesday and again on Friday/Saturday.   Biggest surf north of SF - smallest Central/So Cal.   Cya in the water.  

Friday, February 28, 2025

UPDATED FORECAST....2-28....Swell parade continues, March looms

West swell peaking today at 9-10ft @14 from 280-285.   Tonight another longer period West swell will move in at 9@19 from 285, building tomorrow to 12@17, peak overnight Saturday into Sunday and gradually fade into Monday.   Weather pattern will change Saturday night as a new low pressure system dives in and brings rain chances to the region.   Better shot of rain on Sunday, colder temps and then a chance of on and off rain through next week.  Winter returns to CA.   March looks potentially wet as the storm track stays active.   Tomorrow, Mar 1st is usually the end of the "good" wave season in Nor Cal, but swell looks to continue for a little while at least.  We do have some northwest winds in the forecast once that front goes through and just a matter of time before the spring time wind machine sets up and starts blowing.   Cya in the water.  

Sunday, February 16, 2025

UPDATED FORECAST 2-16

 One or two more weather systems this week and then looks like we might remain dry again until March.  New Gulf swell builds in tonight into Monday from 285 degrees - 8-11 ft @15 seconds.  We also have some background Gulf swell in the water today 4-6ft @ 13 seconds - also from 285.  Ongoing swell patterns will be from the West as the pattern will remain active to the Dateline and north/northwest of the Hawaiian Islands while blocking high pressure sets up in the Northeast Pacific.  Won't be as strong as the January dry spell.  Should have some decent weather over the next 10 days once we clear out.  Cya in the water.