UPDATED FORECAST 11-5

 Staying big and stormy north of SF for the rest of the week - large West Swell moves in later today pushing wave heights back into the 15-20 ft range.  Ongoing rain to hit on and off through Friday.   Better surf and weather conditions expected south of Big Sur.   Surf will trend a touch smaller over the weekend - winds do not look that horrible through Sunday.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 10-17

 Long period northwest swell will begin filling in along the coast late tonight (SF North) and slowly fill in through the day on Saturday into Sunday.   Swell will peak at 8-10 ft @15 seconds.  Biggest SF north.  North winds will mostly blow offshore the next few days which will also create a fairly large windswell over the outer waters that could peak at around 13ft on Sunday.   This will combine with the nw swell to make the surf even larger.   Things settle down some on the wind front by around Tuesday, just in time for another northwest swell train - this one 10@17 to run in.   General swell direction will be 300-310 degrees.   Fall is here.  Nice weather for the next week or so and then by next week a potentially bigger pattern change against with days of heavy rain and wind.   Bit early to dial that in - but the weather models are trending towards something decent.   Get some, cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 9-26 - N PAC OPEN FOR BIZ

 The fall transition to North Pacific swells is well underway in the Gulf.   A series of low pressure systems, energized by the remnants of West Pac typhoons is traversing around 40 N.  The energy from the West is energizing the jet stream - winds are strong in an area of deep low pressure up under Alaska.  We also have locally generated windswell hitting mostly points from SF north.   First pulse of northwest swell is forecast to arrive later on Saturday likely peaking around 6-8 ft @13 seconds from 300 deg.  At the same time - windswell will increase further to 11ft@10 seconds mostly in the outer waters.   Northwest swell will remain moderate in size from 5-6ft @12-14 seconds through Tuesday.   Biggest north of SF.  Then we have our first real swell of the fall season to come in Wednesday - peaking at 10ft @14 seconds.   Winds stay strong from the northwest until Sunday, when the direction will change to south as the first in a series of storm systems comes ashore for most of Northern California with some moisture making it's way into Central CA.   South winds on and off through about Wednesday of next week.   Rain on and off through the period - heaviest SF north where a few inches will fall.   To the south, keep an eye on Hurricane Narda to toss in decent south swell - close source - 3-4 ft @12-13 seconds from 180.  That will likely impact So Cal most to Santa Cruz.  Everything else further north will be under the influence of the bigger northerly swells.  Plenty to ride, some rain, wind, etc, all the things about fall we look forward to.  Cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST 9-13

 First northwest swell of the early season is peaking today along the CA Coast - biggest north of SF at round 7-8ft @14-15 seconds.  Swell direction is 305.   Small south in the background around 2ft@14 from 205.  Another early season storm will brush far Northern California tomorrow and behind it high pressure will build in next week warming temps back up.   It will be windy the next couple days - out of the north/northwest - especially north of SF.   Winds will begin to settle late next week.  Background south swells forecast most of next week - nothing notable until around Wednesday when a longer period south builds in.   There is the potential for another larger northwest swell next week as well - looking at the models things could get interesting around next Thursday and likely more swell behind that as the season is starting in the N Pac and slowing down for the Summer in the Southern Hemisphere.   As NOAA stations/buoys continue to go offline it will become increasingly harder to accurately forecast.  Even basic things like nearshore water temperature become harder to locate given malfunctioning NOAA stations.   Don't look for anyone to repair or replace in the near future.   We will be back to the OG ways soon - just get in your vehicle and drive until you see surf..........cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 9-8

 Our run of south swell continues this week with another NZ south starting to roll in today at 2@17 from 175 and we have a small northwest swell hitting around 2@11 from 305.   Storm system just offshore will bring some early season rain to N CA - from about SF north - and the most rain from Southern Mendo to the Oregon border.  After that, high pressure to build in, but more unsettled weather potentially this coming weekend as fall begins to take hold.  A better northwest swell is now on the charts for this coming weekend - still on the smaller side but should peak around 3@15 from 305 - starting Friday.  Do not see much of this swell hitting south of Santa Cruz.   Winds seasonably light with southerly winds until Tuesday night switching to 5-10 kt northwest through the period.  Cya in the water.