Thursday, January 7, 2016

El Nino Rules

As forecast months ago and fully expected - January arrived and El Nino is in full control of our weather and swell.  Pacific storms continue to line up across the Pacific - all the way back to Japan fueled by an ocean/atmospheric connection that in many ways has now even eclipsed the 1997 El Nino in terms of strength.  Remains to be seen if we see the same copius amounts of rainfall we had with the 97' event - but if we stay at our current pace no reason that won't happen.  Deep water heights running around 16-20ft today at 15+ seconds.  Heights will dip for the weekend - back into the 8-12ft range mostly - but still large.  Swell looks to run back up starting next week.  Winds are going to be north/northwest/some east (fairly light) the next few days - so spots sheltered from the wind, and can shape the swell will be best.  South to southeast winds will return late in the weekend as another storm system takes aim on the West Coast.  That system will be more organized - until then on and off chances of rain with weaker impulses moving through the flow towards the West Coast.  Cya in the water.

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