Spring. Mostly onshore winds and fog already the rule, sheltered spots will be the most favorable for riding waves - but you'll always find windows at other breaks as high pressure ebbs and flows around the region. We do have a strong late season storm developing in the Gulf of Alaska and that will send a good size swell train our way late Sunday into Monday/Tuesday. Swell will peak Monday with deep water surf heights forecast in the 6-10ft range - from 280-310. Good for double overhead ++ surf at north facing breaks. Chance of rain Monday and Tuesday. No real clean wind forecast for the next week. WNW winds the rule. There's a lot of talk about El Nino coming - even the tools in the main stream are talking about a Super Nino - but you have to discount what they say since they know very little about weather. That said - water temps are much warmer across the Pacific Basin. We certainly appear to be transitioning to an El Nino pattern. The next two months will be critical to give us an indication of just how strong this will be. If we do push into an El Nino - looking for stronger south swells, more activity in the East Pacific/Mexico for hurricanes and TS's. Then, next Fall, we would likely see an increase in North/West Pacific storm/swell activity. It would be nice to have a strong summer of south swells - just have to wait and see what develops. Cya in the water.
Thursday, April 3, 2014
Orion setting early in the western sky is always a sign the seasons are changing. It's April, and by all accounts by now we're usually strafed by northwest winds and cold water - but so far this spring, knock wood, water temps aren't too bad. And we've been blessed with small, but fairly consistent swells from the Gulf of Alaska. That should continue through the weekend. We also have a small run of back to back southwest swells from down under as the South Pacific begins to stir. Weak storm tonight will briefly shift winds to the south and then strong to the northwest late Friday and Saturday before easing up early next week. Look for deepwater swell from 270-305 at 4-7 ft through next Tuesday. Might see light AM winds for Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Stuff to ride, keep an eye on the winds and know your spots. Southwest swell will be from 190-220 through next Thursday. Cya in the water.
at 9:54 PM