Thursday, June 27, 2013
Decent conditions mix of swells
Winds at this hour are much lighter than forecast - last night was actually pretty epic - front passed, gradients dropped to nothing and the WNW swell pulsed nice at north facing breaks. This AM, WNW is fading a tad - 5.8 ft at 12 seconds - as a new pulse of SW swell begins to show - 2.8ft at 17. The forecast still calls for winds to start to increase from the northwest today - as high pressure builds from the East which should trigger the winds to jump given the big difference in pressure (land to sea). WNW swell will hang around as will the SW swell for the remainder of the week. SW swell to be the main feature this coming weekend. It's going to get very hot inland as high pressure peaks early next week. If the high pressure moves far enough to the coast, we might see light winds (especially mornings) - otherwise, it's forecast to remain foggy near the beach with onshore winds - while just a few miles inland it could be extremely hot. One of those heat events you need to keep an eye on the winds and if you get a window - hit it. Cya in the water.
at 7:54 AM