Monday, December 31, 2012

Next Swell showing nicely

Long period swell 6ft 20 sec from 295 filling in tonight.  Swell will peak overnight and be quite solid at sunrise with 8-10ft long period deep water swell heights.  Winds look east/offshore in the morning at most breaks.  Look for double overhead and larger sets at north facing breaks.  That should be the rule for the next three days as overlapping northwest swells roll ashore.  Winds look ideal with light offshore flow each morning.  Happy New Year everyone.  Have a safe night.  Cya in the water.

Friday, December 28, 2012

Weekend Forecast - Large Swell Tomorrow

Forerunners of next large swell hitting north - 7ft at 22 seconds.  Swell will slowly build through tonight - peaking Saturday at 10-14 seconds at 17-19 seconds.  Double, triple overhead surf expected and larger sets and prime deepwater spots.  Winds at present are blowing east, may switch to south/southeast later as a weak weather system is dropping south along the coast.  Some rain expected today and perhaps into tomorrow morning.  Then high pressure will build back in and north to northwest winds will come around behind the front.  Swell will drop Sunday, but still be solid, smaller on Monday with more east winds forecast then.  Looks like our next weather system comes in late Tuesday into Wednesday.  Plenty of size tomorrow.  Cya in the water.

Sunday, December 23, 2012

Updated Forecast

One look outside and you have probably guessed it's not a surf day.  Last in current series of storms pounding the region with heavy rain, strong south winds and a mix bag of swell.  Look for conditions to gradually improve overnight with perhaps n/nw flow by Monday for spots north of SF.  Big southwest storm swell will come up all day and fade quickly tonight.  Monday and Tuesday might feature something rideable if you know where to look.  Another storm is forecast to come ashore Tuesday and exit Wednesday.  Then high pressure may build in for the remainder of next week - but winds could be blowing northwest by that time.  Check the winds all next week - and you will find some windows.  Plenty of swell in the water and it will get much bigger by next Thursday and Friday. Happy Holidays to everyone and thanks for following.  Cya in the water.

Monday, December 17, 2012

Very Large Swell Next Weekend - Bad Weather Continues

This week is shaping up as another stormy one, as Pacific systems are lining up past the Dateline to deliver rain and winds our way through next weekend.  In fact, by next Friday (late) we could see another large rain event like the one we had earlier this month.  Good surf windows will be few and far between, however very large surf will be on order most, if not all of the week with an extra large event next Saturday and Sunday with deepwater heights forecast in the 15-20ft range.  Right now the best day of the upcoming week looks like Wednesday, with East winds forecast and surf in the 8-12ft range.  Otherwise - we will see sw/w or nw winds most of the time.  Spots along this coast do like some of these wind directions, so if you know where to look you'll find something to ride.  Cya in the water.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Active Storm Pattern, Plenty Of Swell

Cold storm has passed our area tonight.  In it's wake we will probably see the coldest readings of the Fall tomorrow morning.  Steep angled northwest swell came down with the storm (305 to 320) - in the 8-10ft range at 12-14 seconds.  KING tides the next couple days with the largest tides of the season.  We are in a very active storm pattern as the jetstream will likely guide storms our way every 36 hrs or so for the next week.  In fact, weather models put us in an above normal precip pattern through the end of December.  As they say, the devil is in the details - so just expect unsettled conditions with rain rolling through from time to time - with the next storm possible on Friday, then a strong system late Saturday into Sunday.  Plenty of swell through the period - trick is going to be finding some place to ride and keeping an eye on the winds - which will be highly variable.  You might just get some windows of opportunity.  The North Pacific wave machine will certainly be pushing out swell.  Cya in the water.

Monday, December 10, 2012

Updated Forecast

Pt Reyes Deepwater buoy is back online.  Now the SF buoy appear to be on the blink.  Small new pulse of northwest swell just hitting our northern buoys at 4-6 ft at 15 seconds.  This swell will fill in all day tomorrow with some decent size by sunset.  Upward trend continues Wednesday and Thursday with deepwater swell heights in the 6-8 ft range and possibly bigger at times by Thursday.  Storm system dropping south out of the Gulf, with bring rain by Wednesday morning.  Showers and colder weather stick around Thursday with very cold overnight lows on Thursday night into Friday morning.  Weather models flip flopping about the weekend - could see more rain or high pressure will regain control.   WNW winds will be the rule for the next few days.  Plenty of swell, find some protection from those winds and watch the big fat tides in the mornings.  Cya in the water.

Sunday, December 9, 2012

Buoy's Offline

PT Reyes buoy appears to be off line and not sending data.  CA Buoy is still offline and has been for quite a while now.  No idea when that will be re deployed.  The SF Buoy also appears to be having some issues with wind readings, but swell appears to still be operational.  C'mon NOAA get it together and repaired.  Otherwise - clean today and tomorrow with morning off shores, small wind swell at 6-7 ft at 10 seconds.  Get it, because the pattern changes back to wet Tuesday night and could potentially stay unsettled through next weekend.  Cya in the water.

Thursday, December 6, 2012

High Pressure Returns

High pressure building in over the East Pacific and California will shunt the storm track way north for an extended period - probably through all of next week.  In the short term, fog will become more wide spread and winds light in the mornings.  We may see a stronger offshore pattern set up early next week.  Swell wise, large windswell type event today with surf 10 ft at 11 seconds from plus 300.  Swell will drop through the weekend with shoulder to head high surf for Saturday and Sunday at most good north facing breaks.  Winds should be best towards the weekend, as we might see stronger northwest flow today and tomorrow.  Check the winds.  Cya in the water.

Monday, December 3, 2012

Updated Forecast

Next round of rain will come ashore late tonight.  This storm will be nothing like the events of the past four days.  South winds will ramp up again and last through mid day Wednesday.  Winds will veer northwest by that afternoon and stay northwest into the weekend.  Swell will hover in the 5-7ft (deepwater) range most of the week.  No big increase in size expected.  Average winter time surf around these parts.  Find spots that are protected from the northwest winds and there should be something to ride.  Cya in the water.