You made it through another summer in Nor Cal. Tomorrow marks the opening of the 2012-2013 Fall/Winter Surf season. We will have surf this weekend as well. Here's how it breaks down this morning:
First - swell from Hurricane Illena is showing - 1-2 ft at 11-12 seconds from 165-175. Probably not very noticeable. North windswell is 5-7 ft at 7-8 seconds. The bigger inbound swell, this south swell that everyone has hyped all week - is just showing in So Cal. I've seen some readings at 3-4 ft at 20-22 seconds (deepwater). This is a good sign, and just the earlier beginnings of this event. Don't think we'll see anything up here until very late today or tonight. By tomorrow, swell should be filling in nicely along the coast. Should stick around through Monday. Fog has really plowed inland today and will stick around through tomorrow. Warmer temps expected on Sunday and Monday, inland mainly. Winds are light onshore and will probably stay that way through the period. This is good however, because the inbound swell train will not encounter huge northwest winds down the coast which will help maintain some size. Out in the North Pacific, watching a couple systems taking shape under the Aleutians, but as of today, no wind fetch really associated with either headed our way. If you know where to look this weekend you will probably find some fun waves. Cya in the water.