Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Updated Forecast

NW winds blowing this morning with fairly steep angle northwest windswell.  Look for that windswell to continue through Thursday (perhaps lighter nw winds Thurs morning) and then a couple larger more powerful west northwest swells due to arrive Friday through Sunday.  This will push surf heights back into the overhead to double overhead range at breaks with good northwest exposure.  Friday might have the lightest winds of the next few ways, but models are also hinting at a southerly surge of fog - so check it.  Saturday we have a small storm coming in giving us a chance of rain - and then high pressure builds back in on Sunday.  So, surf on tap for sure - but spring time winds basically - check it daily and know your spots and you might find some waves.  cya in the water.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

The Up Side Of A Wet Spring....

Normally we hang our heads low when Spring arrives on our Northern Coast.  Windswell, northwesterly winds, super cold water, south swells at 1.5 ft at 17 sec.  But this year, all this late season rain is creating some sandbars at spots that normally start to go pretty quiet right about now.  So rejoice and go hunting you might just find some nuggets.  I'd also like to give a shout out to Danny Hess, Ashley Lloyd, Gary Hanel and Bob Mitsven.  Great board builders/shapers and i am lucky enough to have a board from each in my quiver.  If you ever get a chance to buy a board made by one of these folks do it - used or new.  You won't be disappointed.  I've been on their boards since late last Fall, changing it up as conditions warrant - just stoked to be catching tons of waves and really enjoying each go out.  As for the rest of the weekend and into early next week - Sunday will feature light winds early - but changing to s/sw late morning as our next (and last!) front arrives bringing rain - mostly from San Francisco to points north.  This will be a light rain event - and move out of here by Monday morning.  Looks like high pressure will take control for most of next week - with temps hitting the 70s by late week - in the inland valleys.  Northwest winds will probably be the rule - but lighter wind speeds - no full force blows.  Swell is going to stay large Sunday/Monday, at north facing breaks, then a gradual fade mid week.  Look for swell to jump back up next Friday through the following weekend.  More on that mid week.  Cya in the water.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

29ft at 15 seconds

CA Buoy off the hook today.  Big West coming in tonight from this powerful storm that just roared ashore.  Look for 15-20 ft deepwater swell around here Friday. Fading some Saturday.  West winds (perhaps still some southwest) the rule - for the next 24-36 hours - then we might see a more southerly turn in the winds on Saturday when the next storm comes ashore.  Sunday winds in the AM might be light/variable - high pressure begins to build in next week which may give us a number of dry days - but also probably northwest winds.  Plenty of swell through the weekend.  It's Spring, Orion is setting - but the North Pac isn't done serving up swell yet.  cya in the water.

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Updated Forecast

Large swell through the rest of the week - but the winds out of the s/sw are making a mess of pretty much everything.  Another storm comes ashore Thursday - and then possibly yes another Friday into Saturday.  First real break looks like Sunday and then high pressure to finally build in next week for a return to dry weather.  You might find some moments at protected spots - but it's pretty ugly most places.  cya in the water.

Monday, March 21, 2011

3 Boards for Sale

 Board for sale.  Left to right:

Channel Island Even Keel - 6.1 - $350.00

CI Flyer - 6.4 - $300.00

CI Dumpster Diver - 6.2 - $350.00

All three boards in killer shape - i'm making room for some new additions to the quiver.

Post your interest in the comments section with info and i'll get in touch with you.  Comments are moderated and not posted unless i choose to do so - so your email and/or phone number will not be made public.


Sunday, March 20, 2011

Week Ahead

Big storms will continue to roll in through next week. Expect strong winds, large storm surf on and off through next weekend. Winds are going to switch from south to southwest to west/northwest depending on systems as they come ashore. Heavy rain on and off looks the rule. You might find a few windows now and then but otherwise looks like a good week to get some work done. Cya in the water.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Hey Mr Lopez - why screw with Punta Mita?

Report from Punta Mita - shoulder high and getting bigger. Surfed today with "mr Pipeline" Gerry Lopez who locals say is starting a biz down here in Punta Mita - many unhappy locals and for us traveling surfers - be prepared for clowns on longboards and SUPs in the line up with no courtesy towards anyone and very little skill. Thanks Gerry. How about you stay in Bend and try not to destroy the vibe at one of the coolest regions in Mexico. Very uncool. I hope the locals drive you out like they did Terry Sims.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Updated Weekend Forecast

Crazy day yesterday with all the destruction in Japan from the earthquake and tsunami - as well as a fair amount of damage in Santa Cruz Harbor and Crescent City.  I got out in the water around mid day - up in Marin - and it was quite dynamic as the ocean was still feeling the effects of the waves of energy coming from across the Pacific.  Tsunami Advisories are finally over - and we have large back to back wnw swells inbound for Sunday and Monday.  Unfortunately winds look pretty problematic on Sunday as a front is also dragging down from the northwest - should kick up strong se winds.  You might see some light to variable winds on Monday with xxl surf at north facing breaks.  Certainly will be plenty of swell over the next 2-4 days - just check the wind reports and if you know where to go on certain wind directions - you'll have plenty to ride. It's going to be on and off rain chances most of next week as well - so keep that in mind when planning your session.   I won't update this blog from March 16-20 - going down to Mexico to chase inbound early season sw swells.  cya in the water.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Tsunami Warning

8.9 earthquake off the coast of Japan has generated a tsunami due to arrive our shores around 8am -(Ft Point) - be careful and alert. Deepwater height is projected at 2-5 ft but keep in mind this is deep water height and tsunamis are powerful and travel much deeper than the longest period swells. more info as it becomes available

Wednesday, March 9, 2011


New wnw swell will get in here tomorrow afternoon - with some rain and light winds.  Probably look for double overhead sets late in the day at north facing breaks.  Friday, winds look light in the AM - and swell will pump up a bit more - likely see double to triple overhead sets at the better breaks.  Again, with light morning winds.  Keep an eye on the winds, know your spots and you'll find some surf.  cya in the water.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Week Ahead

Onshore/spring time winds the rule for the next five days.  Probably lightest for the AM sesh Wednesday - otherwise - pretty messy at most north facing/west facing breaks.  Main source of swell will continue to be the northeast Pacific - with shoulder to head high + waves (at north facing breaks) the rule until Friday when a bigger pulse of WNW swell is due - at that time we may see deep water swell back in the 8-12ft range.  Small storms forecast for tonight and Thursday - but rain stays mostly in the North Bay region.  Minor chance of rain over the weekend - but it's looking more and more like the storm track is getting ready to pull out of here for the season and retreat to the northern latitudes until next Fall.  Southern Hemisphere is starting to show some early signs of life - but a bit too early yet to really focus on it.  Make the best of what you can get.  cya in the water.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Weekend Forecast

Fun mix of SSW swell from our storm this week and northwest windswell - 5ft at 10 from 220 and 4.8 at 12 from 315.  Should be a fun mix at the more protected spots.  Winds today have been light to variable to a touch of south.  Look for light winds again Friday morning, and probably Saturday as well.  SSW swell should fade some on Friday.  But look for size to stay around waist to head high - a tad bigger at times until Sunday - when a new pulse of west swell bumps heights up in the head high to 1ft overhead range at north/west facing breaks.  Weather should be an issue on Sunday as well as our next storm comes ashore with sw winds eventually turning wnw later in the day.  So get on it Friday/Saturday.  cya in the water.

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

CATCH A WAVE FOR MOLLY from Joe Carter on Vimeo.

From Endless Bummer in NY (and thanks for posting guys).  Really enjoyed this film.