Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Updated Christmas Forecast and Upcoming Weekend

Winds are veering North tonight and should be blowing NE/E (offshore) by Thursday and Friday mornings. Could even see lighter winds tomorrow morning (Wednesday) but things might still be a bit bumpy after all this NW wind. We have back to back WNW swells in the water, one winding down tomorrow and then a new swell incoming Thursday, peaking Friday. Should see peak sets with this swell to several feet overhead at NW facing breaks. Good direction on these pulses - 270-300 degrees. A new storm is taking shape tonight in the Central Pacific - quite impressive on satellite - and that could kick up a much larger swell for the upcoming weekend. More on that swell event Friday. If the models are correct - we could unfortunately see a pretty strong turn to wet weather this weekend as well which might negate the incoming swell train in terms of quality. The Pacific Basin is super active - El Nino is still gaining some strength and I don't believe we've seen the full impact yet of this building event in terms of swells and storms. It's overtaking 3 years of La Nina in the upper atmosphere and that requires a huge amount of energy to reverse that cycle. Something that has been going on for many months now. So we could very well be in for a wet and wild January and beyond. Time will tell. In the meantime, enjoy the good run of weather and surf upcoming. Cya in the water.

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