Monday, June 29, 2009

Solid run of south swells coming up

Morning - the summer of good south swell action looks to continue 4th of july weekend right on through the week of july 6th. Back to back swells will start showing this coming Thursday with probably some of the better days looking like Sunday the 5th and Tues the 7th and Wed the 8th. The fog is coming back unfortunately, and looks to be in full force for the upcoming weekend, as another strong low comes into the NW creating a stronger onshore push. We might get some lighter winds nearshore - we'll have to see. I'll tweak things on the upcoming swells this coming Friday/Saturday when i have a better handle on the deepwater size to be expected. But right now looks pretty decent. Cya in the water.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

"Searching for Michael Peterson" trailer

Legendary MP - trailer a film about his life. Looks pretty cool. If any of you ever watched Morning of the Earth - 70s classic from Director Albert Falzon - has some amazing footage of MP and others. MP's life was pretty tragic and complicated, yet he was and remains one of the most influential surfers of all time.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Series of south swells starting next weekend

Morning - Windswell remains our main source of swell right now - at least thru the week. A pretty steep South is due around these parts this coming weekend - Fri to Sun - angle of approach around 180-190 - size still TBD. Beyond that - another storm is forecast to form down under New Zealand on 6-25 lasting thru 6-28 - this should send up some decent swell in the 17 sec range - the following week (probably towards the 4th of July). NW winds look to continue most of the week over the outer waters, perhaps calmer in the mornings nearshore - water temps have dropped again - 50 degrees - thanks to a week of NW gale blow over the weekend. First Tropical Storm of the 09 Season has formed off Mexico - Andres - doesn't look to be a swell maker for our region, but may kick up some short/mid period stuff for Cabo. More and more forecasters are hinting at the formation of what could be a very strong El Nino for Fall/Winter this year - which could be a great source of swell in both hemispheres later in the year. that's all for now - cya in the water.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Nice South, Possible Offshore winds mid week

Morning - nice run of south swells in the water since this Friday past. Weekend was pretty sweet at the Beach and that trend continues today. We have a very steep south hitting - almost 4 ft at 17 from 165 - those places that can pick up that steep of an angle should be really good today. This south looks to stick around thru mid week and the flow is forecast to turn more offshore as we move more into the week as well - so conditions look pretty nice. What is causing all this weird windless weather and warm water temps? Well, La Nina is dead - she's gone and hopefully wont bother us again for a while. We have warmer water temps across the Pacific basin - from West to East, the jetstream is quite active for summer - which is also a possible sign of an El Nino pattern starting to take shape for the Fall. The southern hemi has been more active than in the past couple years - especially in the favored swell corridor by New Zealand - which gives us those nice long period souths like we've had of late. So get out there and enjoy. Cya in the water.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Somewhere in Northwest Mexico

Just back from a week in NW Mexico. Let yourself mindsurf this wave. This is Friday past, epic conditions, probably the best I've seen at this spot in three years. I had this break with one other guy for four days before the rest of our crew showed up and crowded the line up - ha. It was well worth a touch of the flu, the shits and sore muscles like I've never experienced. Going back in August and hopefully October. As for surf around these parts - small south continues but winds are problematic. Look for a series of south pulses to keep up through next week. Nothing huge, but something to surf. Get to Mexico if you have a chance in the next two weeks - as it looks like swell will be steady in that part of the world. Cya in the water.