Monday, June 29, 2009
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Legendary MP - trailer a film about his life. Looks pretty cool. If any of you ever watched Morning of the Earth - 70s classic from Director Albert Falzon - has some amazing footage of MP and others. MP's life was pretty tragic and complicated, yet he was and remains one of the most influential surfers of all time.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Morning - Windswell remains our main source of swell right now - at least thru the week. A pretty steep South is due around these parts this coming weekend - Fri to Sun - angle of approach around 180-190 - size still TBD. Beyond that - another storm is forecast to form down under New Zealand on 6-25 lasting thru 6-28 - this should send up some decent swell in the 17 sec range - the following week (probably towards the 4th of July). NW winds look to continue most of the week over the outer waters, perhaps calmer in the mornings nearshore - water temps have dropped again - 50 degrees - thanks to a week of NW gale blow over the weekend. First Tropical Storm of the 09 Season has formed off Mexico - Andres - doesn't look to be a swell maker for our region, but may kick up some short/mid period stuff for Cabo. More and more forecasters are hinting at the formation of what could be a very strong El Nino for Fall/Winter this year - which could be a great source of swell in both hemispheres later in the year. that's all for now - cya in the water.
Monday, June 15, 2009
Morning - nice run of south swells in the water since this Friday past. Weekend was pretty sweet at the Beach and that trend continues today. We have a very steep south hitting - almost 4 ft at 17 from 165 - those places that can pick up that steep of an angle should be really good today. This south looks to stick around thru mid week and the flow is forecast to turn more offshore as we move more into the week as well - so conditions look pretty nice. What is causing all this weird windless weather and warm water temps? Well, La Nina is dead - she's gone and hopefully wont bother us again for a while. We have warmer water temps across the Pacific basin - from West to East, the jetstream is quite active for summer - which is also a possible sign of an El Nino pattern starting to take shape for the Fall. The southern hemi has been more active than in the past couple years - especially in the favored swell corridor by New Zealand - which gives us those nice long period souths like we've had of late. So get out there and enjoy. Cya in the water.