Sunday, July 15, 2018

UPDATED FORECAST/JULY 15

South swell continues this morning, most readings show swell around 2.4ft - 3 ft @14 seconds from 180.   Water temps have warmed over the past week with the lack of northwest winds - ranging 55-59 north to south.   Look for fairly light winds to continue today and probably tomorrow - then winds will start to ramp up again from mid week on.   After this run of south swells ends tomorrow we will be back to windswell for the next week.   So get what you can.   Cya in the water.  

Friday, July 6, 2018

HELLO FABIO/UPDATED FORECAST 7--6

Swell from Hurricane Fabio is showing strongly this am - but it's a very selective swell given the steep angle of approach (165-175).   However, buoys showing 4-5 ft at 13-14 seconds.   Winds are from the north/northwest already this am and will get stronger over the weekend.   Water temps have come up with the south winds - back in the 54-56 range.   Swell from Fabio will stick around through tomorrow and then fade - so get it while you can.   After this, it's back to windswell for next week.   Cya in the water.  

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

UPDATED FORECAST/6-27 AND WEEKEND....

Swell this morning is primarily mid size wind swell at 7-8ft at 9-11 seconds from a steep 320.   Winds in the Bay Area are south to southwest.   From Pt Reyes north, winds are blowing strongly over the outer waters from the north/northwest.   Water temps remain on the chilly side - low 50s.   For the rest of the week, north winds will be the rule especially north of Pt Reyes, getting back up to gale force over the weekend.   Large wind swell will be the main source of waves with a background southwest swell from New Zealand showing primarily Sat/Sun at select spots that will focus the energy, but mostly lost under the more dominant flow from the north.   S Pac has gone to sleep beyond this week and nothing active in the tropics right now.   Wind swell is going to be the primary source of waves for the foreseeable future - but at least we have that.   Cya in the water.

Saturday, June 16, 2018

UPDATED FORECAST 6-16

Wind swell remains the primary source of surf through the weekend.   Deep water is running anywhere from 7-11ft at 9-11 seconds, bigger north of the Bay Area.   From around 320 deg.   We will have a southerly wind/fog surge on Sunday which will briefly reverse the relentless northwest winds, bringing a bout of south winds.   We do have a small south swell due in starting late Saturday lasting until about Tuesday - 1.7ft to 2.5ft at 16 seconds from around 203 degrees.   Minimal really, and much of this energy will likely get throttled once the northwest winds pick back up Sunday night.       Still, might find something to ride at south facing breaks.   Maybe a bit more hope in the long term from the South Pacific, as the storm cycle looks to continue/pick up southeast of New Zealand which is a favorable swell corridor for us and has been a decent producing region so far this year.   Cya in the water.  

Friday, June 8, 2018

UPDATED FORECAST 6-8 - SOUTH SWELL FOR WEEKEND

South swell from a storm that developed from 6-1 to 6-4 in the Central South Pacific is moving towards CA and will begin to show late Saturday with early forerunners at 1.9ft at 20 sec from around 200 degrees.   Main push happens Sunday and Monday as the deep water is forecast to jump to 3ft at 18 sec.   Period will start to drop Monday (16-17 sec) into Tuesday, fade on Wednesday.   All in all, looks like a decent run.   Our coast will remain shredded by northwest winds through the next week so south facing spots will be the call.   Maybe a few moments early mornings at beach breaks that like souths, but many of those are north to west facing and will be impacted by winds.   Cold water will remain.   Something to ride at least it would appear if the swell comes in as forecast.  Cya in the water.