Thursday, January 17, 2019

WHOA - CA BUOY - 33ft@17sec!

XXL large inbound swell train 350 miles out at CA Buoy.   Biggest reading this am was at 33ft!.   Swell will arrive later and continue through tomorrow.   Don't really see things cleaning up until maybe Sunday when winds turn more northwest and high pressure starts to build into the region giving us dry weather all of next week.   Until then - more rain today on and off (not as much wind) and then looks rainy off and on through the weekend.   Might be some knooks and crannies working if you know where to look.  Cya in the water.

Friday, January 11, 2019

UPDATED FORECAST - Plenty of swell and southeast winds

Happy New Year.   Stormy pattern setting back up for the foreseeable future.  We will have on and off rain events through at least the middle of next week and likely beyond.   Plenty of swell trains with mostly west swells through the period, biggest looks like Saturday and then again on Monday.   Winds are going to stay pretty consistent from the south/southeast/east depending on frontal passage - so some spots will remain clean, others not so much.   Plenty of options.   One note - Pt Arena buoy appears to have stopped transmitting overnight - not sure if this is temporary or it's come off its mooring.   Will monitor.   Cya in the water.

Saturday, December 29, 2018


Old west/northwest swell fading out this am at 7ft 11 seconds, new swell loading up at far northern buoys - 9-10 ft at 20 seconds.   That swell will fill in all day and be solid by tomorrow morning.   Winds are offshore pretty much up and down the coast as high pressure rules the day.  No rain in sight through most of next week until the pattern breaks down potentially next weekend.  Until then, look for clean conditions especially for AM sessions with swell gradually fading by around next Wednesday.   Beach breaks should be pretty fun from Monday to Wednesday.   Cya in the water.

Saturday, December 22, 2018


Hope you enjoyed the Winter Solstice.  Break between big swells today - deep water around 7.5-8 ft at 12 seconds from 300 plus.  Break will be short-lived as the Papa Buoy is already showing deep water swell at 19ft 14-15 seconds.   That will arrive tonight and be in full force tomorrow, along with a new round of rain showers lasting through Christmas.   On and off rain, wind, lots of swell.   There will be moments if you pick your windows wisely.  Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and cya in the water.  

Friday, December 14, 2018


As if it's not been big enough the past two weeks.....Large storm system with a dynamic fetch (means the winds are moving at a high speed in the same direction of an already created swell) all pushing east towards the West Coast - creating a huge swell event for Sunday night and Monday.   Satellite pass yesterday revealed seas in excess of 51ft and the storm was only 1500 miles from the Coast.  NOAA is predicting long period swell of 18-20ft (Bay Area), 20-23 ft (North Coast) with extremely long periods of 19-21 seconds.  Deepwater breaks like Mavericks and others will be in excess of 50ft on Monday.   We still have large swell until then, staying mostly above 10ft until Sunday night.   Storm door is open as well, quick moving storm today and tonight - break Saturday and then another quick moving system Sunday.  Winds don't look great - going to stay mostly south to southwest through Sunday night.   Might see light northwest winds for Monday (Bay Area), but winds on the far North Coast should remain west to southwest.  Monday should certainly be one to go and witness.  Be cautious and alert if you're near the beaches.   Cya in the water.