Wednesday, July 18, 2018
UPDATED FORECAST - SOUTH PACIFIC GETS BUSY
Solid storms have been underway northeast of New Zealand & Central Pacific. The first in a series of swells is due in this weekend - the New Zealand swell, 2-3ft at 16-17 seconds from about 213 degrees hits on Saturday. The Central Pacific swell, which is bigger and more powerful, will begin to overrun that swell late day Saturday with long period forerunners in the 19-20 sec range from 195 plus. On Sunday, we will see 2 ft at 19-20, jumping to 2.5 at 21 seconds on Monday as the second pulse of this swell takes over the first. Next Tuesday looks very good - deepwater 3.5 ft and bigger at 18-19 seconds - all 191-200 degrees - a very favorable swell angle for Nor Cal breaks. That swell will probably hold well into the middle of next week. Until this Saturday, it's mostly windswell and a fair amount of wind over the outer waters - could see a few light wind moments near shore - but don't expect much. It does look like the winds will back off some for the weekend which is great news with the inbound swell. Always a good thing for south swells moving up and around Pt Conception not having to battle strong northwest winds which can degrade size. So get some work done because we're going to have a good run of southern hemi! Cya in the water.
at 7:07 AM