Tuesday, July 31, 2018

AUGUST UPON US, SEPTEMBER INCHING CLOSER......

July comes to an end with wind and meager wind swell.   That should be the case for the rest of the week and then some as high pressure remains in control.   Could see an increase in the wind swell size by week's end, but don't look for much clean to ride.  Northwest winds are going to remain strong especially over the outer waters and points north.   Water temps have cooled off again as well. Might see some action from the south towards the middle part of August.   Hang in there as September is only a month away and the start to the fall surfing season.   Cya in the water.

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

UPDATED FORECAST - SOUTH PACIFIC GETS BUSY

Solid storms have been underway northeast of New Zealand & Central Pacific.   The first in a series of swells is due in this weekend - the New Zealand swell, 2-3ft at 16-17 seconds from about 213 degrees hits on Saturday.   The Central Pacific swell, which is bigger and more powerful, will begin to overrun that swell late day Saturday with long period forerunners in the 19-20 sec range from 195 plus.  On Sunday, we will see 2 ft at 19-20, jumping to 2.5 at 21 seconds on Monday as the second pulse of this swell takes over the first.   Next Tuesday looks very good - deepwater 3.5 ft and bigger at 18-19 seconds - all 191-200 degrees - a very favorable swell angle for Nor Cal breaks.   That swell will probably hold well into the middle of next week.   Until this Saturday, it's mostly windswell and a fair amount of wind over the outer waters - could see a few light wind moments near shore - but don't expect much.  It does look like the winds will back off some for the weekend which is great news with the inbound swell.   Always a good thing for south swells moving up and around Pt Conception not having to battle strong northwest winds which can degrade size.   So get some work done because we're going to have a good run of southern hemi!  Cya in the water.

Sunday, July 15, 2018

UPDATED FORECAST/JULY 15

South swell continues this morning, most readings show swell around 2.4ft - 3 ft @14 seconds from 180.   Water temps have warmed over the past week with the lack of northwest winds - ranging 55-59 north to south.   Look for fairly light winds to continue today and probably tomorrow - then winds will start to ramp up again from mid week on.   After this run of south swells ends tomorrow we will be back to windswell for the next week.   So get what you can.   Cya in the water.  

Friday, July 6, 2018

HELLO FABIO/UPDATED FORECAST 7--6

Swell from Hurricane Fabio is showing strongly this am - but it's a very selective swell given the steep angle of approach (165-175).   However, buoys showing 4-5 ft at 13-14 seconds.   Winds are from the north/northwest already this am and will get stronger over the weekend.   Water temps have come up with the south winds - back in the 54-56 range.   Swell from Fabio will stick around through tomorrow and then fade - so get it while you can.   After this, it's back to windswell for next week.   Cya in the water.