Tuesday, December 8, 2015
Biggest swell in many years set to roll in late week
The North Pacific is a conveyor belt of large low pressure systems right now and will be for the rest of the week. Ocean surface is already agitated and primed from a week of strong winds and large surf. This coming Thursday and Friday we might see one of the largest long period swells to come ashore in a long time. Deepwater forecasts are calling for northwest swell 18-21ft at 17 seconds around the Bay Area - 20-24ft at 17 seconds! - north of Bodega Bay. That's deepwater before it shoals, jacks and feels the bottom at area points, reefs and beaches which will crank up face heights dramatically. Lots of weather coming in with this swell train - with rain starting Wednesday night and running through Thursday. Winds too - west winds 15-25kts. Surf and winds stay elevated through Sunday. Another chance of rain Saturday night into Sunday. El Nino making his presence known. Cya in the water.
at 8:53 PM