Wednesday, October 7, 2015
Updated Forecast/Wednesday Oct 7th - Unusual swell on the way ** Welcome Back CA Buoy!
Hurricane Oho is east of Hawaii and now tracking quickly to the northeast getting caught up in a larger low pressure complex circulating in the Gulf. What is unusual for us, a fairly large west/southwest swell will begin to fill in on Friday (230-260 deg) and we could see well overhead to double overhead sets at stand out breaks. As Oho gets absorbed into the larger system swell will turn northwest (270-300 deg) late this weekend and hold thru the middle of next week. Stand out winter breaks will certainly be overhead and possibly larger - i'll update on that swell late this weekend. Lightest winds will be found each morning - especially Thurs/Friday around the Bay Area. Farther north winds might be a bit more suspect as northwest CA is much closer to the storm energy that will be impacting Oregon and Washington. The pipe is wide open from way south of Hawaii all the way to BC. Encouraging this early in the season and the thinking is as we get a bit later into the Fall and Winter set ups like that will start to focus the energy and rain onto CA. Let's hope so. If you open the Pacific Satellite link to the right and click on the 16k or 28k infrared imagery you will see all the energy flowing into the Northwest. It's impressive for early October. El Nino slowly starting to assert influence on the jet stream in the Pacific. This El Nino, it's signature is very different from 97' or 82' - it's taking it's sweet time developing. A slow train wreck and the full impact probably won't be felt until the heart of the winter - Jan to Mar. One more small day and then things will get busy. Check the winds. I suspect more than a few unusual spots will open up on that first west/southwest shot starting Friday. Cya in the water. Finally, CA Buoy is once again back online and starting to transmit. Just in time too. This gives us a window out to incoming swell trains 350 nautical miles west of San Francisco.
at 10:25 PM