Tuesday, September 1, 2015
Welcome to the 2015/2016 Season. We had west swell this past weekend from former Typhoon Atsani and steep northwest swell from a low pressure system that brought very light rain from Sonoma north and swell that is still around this morning at 6 to 7 ft - broad range of periods from 10-14 seconds second from 315. Until Thursday we should have Gulf of Alaska windswell hanging in at around 4-5 ft periods 10-11 seconds, as the storm track is active in the northeast Pac sending small swell our way. In addition to that - watching for southwest/west swell from Hurricane Jimena - which is presently in the Central Pac - East of Hawaii and forecast to continue a turn to the north. If swell develops as forecast - look for that to show Tuesday to Thursday - deepwater 2-3 ft from 12-13 seconds - 195 degrees +. Jimena is still a Category 4 Hurricane and it's location and track that far east of the Hawaiian Islands is very typical of an El Nino season, and Hawaii recently has seen a swarm of hurricanes from all directions. Upcoming weekend should still feature some surf from Jimena, some new southwest swell building and ongoing windswell. Winds don't look ideal most of the week with northwest/west onshore strongest mid day on. Best bet may be early mornings and protected spots. Plenty of swell to ride however. Cya in the water.
at 8:11 AM