Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Updated Forecast

Long period northwest swell began filling in late last night - Pt Reyes showing 4.9 ft at 17 from 300+.  This was generated by former Typhoon Nuri - now affecting the Central US with snow, high winds and frigid Arctic temps (1 degree in Denver this am).  This super storm, which recorded the lowest barometric pressure ever in the Bering Sea has been on quite a journey for the past week.  Remnants of Nuri will actually bring us rain tonight and tomorrow as part of that storm reformed in the Gulf of Alaska.  Winds are very light northwest right now but will turn southerly later today in front of this system.  Look for the Nuri swell to fade some on Thursday and then a new Gulf swell fills in Friday with deep water heights 7ft at 14 sec from 285.  That swell will drop some on Saturday, then head back up again on Sunday.  So plenty of swell for the next five days.  Winds will be a combination of light northwest to south/southwest before and after front passages.  Might have another shot of rain late in the weekend and then a major wet pattern change forecast for next week with soaking rains for all of CA.  Check the winds, know your spots.  It's Fall in Nor Cal.  Plenty to ride.  Cya in the water.

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