Thursday, January 16, 2014
One more small fun day, then a 50 year swell???
Amazing winter conditions continue - offshore winds, day after day of rideable waves. Friday will see the smallest day of surf for the next 7-10 - with shoulder to head high surf at north facing breaks. A very potent run of storms north of Hawaii is kicking up swell that will begin to impact our region later in the day on Saturday and continue through all of next week. Could see potentially extremely large surf around Jan 24-25 if conditions behave as models forecast. So look for increasing surf late Saturday from 270-300 with double overhead sets expected by sunset. Larger swell Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday - in the 10-15ft range Sunday and then 8-12 ft through the week. If the mega swell comes in it will show late next Thursday - be full force Friday with deepwater swell heights forecast at 20-30ft!! This would be one for the ages if it materializes. **I still think most of the models are too hot on this swell - but it's worth noting they've been pretty consistent for over a week now forecasting extremely large waves. Should have a better handle on things by the middle of next week. No end in sight to the offshore winds as summer time high pressure has the region in full lock down from rain and storms. I can't emphasize enough how dire things are now for California. We're breaking all sorts of records for lack of rainfall, snowfall, high temps and dry conditions and in many ways could be looking at a drought event never experienced. So do you part - conserve water and tell family, friends, people you work with to do the same. It could make a huge difference for all of us next summer. Enjoy the surf, cya in the water.
at 7:53 PM