Sunday, September 8, 2013
Nice shot of northwest swell due in next Thurs/Friday
Fall is here. Good weekend behind us and a nice pulse of northwest swell to look forward to for Thursday and Friday. Low pressure system is tracking in the Gulf (remains of former TS Toraji) which will send in a good hit of northwest swell (290-305) starting late Wednesday, peaking Thursday and hanging around thru Friday. Top winter breaks go 1-2 ft overhead during the peak of the swell on Thursday. Winds look lightest thru the mornings this week - with a stronger seabreeze for each afternoon. For sure check the winds during the week as the forecast is higly variable. We have no outer buoys working (Papa and CA have both been offline for a while now) and no date for re-deployment, courtesy of NOAA and their budget cuts. It will make forecasting incoming swell trains much more difficult this season. Best to look at the far northern buoys and the Pt Reyes buoy to get a handle on size as swells get close. Cya in the water.
at 10:16 PM