Long period northwest swell filling in - deepwater 3-5 at 17 seconds. There is also a short period southwest swell at 4-6 at 8-10 seconds - this is from the storm system moving through our region tonight. Look for fairly light morning winds through mid week - from south to northwest, highly variable - so worth a check for the AM sessions to see what the wind is doing. Dry Tues/Wed - then another small storm comes in Wed night into Thursday. More rain forecast next Sunday/Monday too. Then it looks like spring time high pressure may take control. Should be surf on tap most of the week - nothing large - just small to mid size pulses from the north and south. Biggest challenge will be the winds. All n' all - could be a lot worse for the first week in April. Cya in the water.
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Nice mix of north swell tonight at 5-7 ft at 17 seconds and southwest 2ft at 14-17 seconds. Winds remain the issue blowing from the west. Doesn't really look to clean up until maybe Friday when we could see some light offshore flow for the morning only. Very weak storm systems are just brushing the region, but not bringing any rain. By the weekend, a cut off low will drop down from the Gulf of Alaska and bring us a better shot at some rain, actually starting around Friday. Winds are going to be highly variable over the next 3-5 days - so give it a check now and then and if you have a window you might get lucky. Plenty of surf to ride (for the time of year). Saturday looks the smallest day coming up - with a new pulse of northwest swell due in Sunday late. Check the winds - cya in the water.
at 10:52 PM
Thursday, March 21, 2013
NW winds are gusting to 23kt over outer waters, water temp is 49 and falling. Very short period windswell is in the water at 6-9 ft at 6-8 seconds from 255 plus. It's actually a combination of west windswell from yesterday's storm and north windswell from the strong winds. A larger west swell will move in later today - buoys north are showing 10 ft at 12 seconds - so that may give us something to ride later at breaks protected from the winds. Winds will increase further overnight and be strong on Friday. West swell will continue Friday and then fade over the weekend - leaving us with small surf and generally junk conditions at anything facing west or north. You might find something to ride at protected spots, but they will be on the small side. Dark days my friends. Desperation surfs become the norm, a good attitude can make 5 second windswell look fun and it's time to reconnect with friends, family and your boss and get back to work. Hang in there, Fall is only six months away. Cya in the water.
at 7:47 AM
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Sorry for the late update - was in Texas the past few days (no surf in Texas to speak of). Around here, northwest winds are blowing hard tonight and we have short period windswell making a mess of things. Storm system to our west will arrive Tuesday night and linger until Thursday bringing much needed rain to the region. Winds will be northwest/west Monday and Tuesday, turing south Tuesday night into Wednesday, back to northwest for the remainder of the week. Small west swell with background southwest swell most of the week - then swell will increase from the west Thursday/Friday as the inbound storm will whip up shorter period swell for the region. Probably good for head high and bigger at west/northwest facing breaks on Thursday and Friday. All n' all, a good week to probably get some work done, however if you know where to look and how spots respond to different wind directions you might find something to ride. Glad to be back in Cali - cya in the water.
at 9:59 PM
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
Small west swell most of this week - probably waist to head high (touch bigger at times) - and the most size at north/northwest facing breaks. Warm temps inland the next two days, but fog remains at the coast as light onshore flow is pretty persistent, even with high pressure overhead. Winds have been light onshore and should remain that way into Wednesday, but then pick up towards the end of the week as high pressure moves off and low pressure well to our north increases the onshore push of fog and low clouds. It looks like winter is over for us, models hinting at perhaps a chance of rain again middle of next week - but i think that's wishful model thinking. The pattern we've been in since January is pretty rock solid and once the normal springtime high pressure sets up in the Gulf of Alaska it's game over for the storm track. So, surf early, keep an eye on the winds and you might get something to ride. Cya in the water.
at 1:14 PM
Friday, March 8, 2013
NW winds are howling behind frontal passage this morning. Storm has passed, long period nw swell is filling in at 5-7 ft at 18-20 seconds. Look for this swell to peak on Saturday, size drops Sunday. Winds will be an issue the next 36 hours or so, then we "might" see lighter AM winds for Sunday. Beyond, high pressure builds in, temps warm inland, nw winds over water and it's looking a lot like Spring. Find protection from the winds, surf early. Cya in the water.
at 8:48 AM
Sunday, March 3, 2013
March 1 is historically the official end of the winter wave season for Central/Northern CA. Almost on cue, the northwest wind machine just picks up and blows, like she's doing now. We have plenty of swell in the water and that should continue through the week - so it's not all bad. Find wind protected spots and you'll find something to ride. Rain comes in Tuesday night, lasting through Thursday - then high pressure builds in again towards next weekend. Overhead surf pretty much all week at north facing breaks, smaller south facing. Cya in the water.
at 5:34 PM