Monday, December 23, 2013
Pretty epic week of surf ahead to enjoy the holidays. Offshore winds, back to back swells right through next Sunday. Our current swell will wind down Tuesday, but still feature overhead waves at north facing breaks. Further reduction on Wednesday, fun size - and then things go large again late Thursday to Sunday. Biggest days looks like next Friday/Saturday/Sunday - with 6-12ft of deepwater swell (285 to 305 deg) on tap. The late week swell will feature some lulls like our present swell, however the storm that created this next event was closer and stronger than the previous storm, so you can expect a bit more activity and strong pulses of sets when they roll ashore. Happy Holidays to everyone. Cya in the water.
at 8:14 PM
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Calm to slight northwest winds this morning. Two storm systems - one to the south and one to our north will influence the region over the next 48 hrs. Additionally, a very strong low pressure system west of Hawaii is kicking up a long period powerful swell that will come in this weekend. Winds will ramp up late tonight into Thursday - Gale Warnings posted along with High Wind Warnings in the North Bay. Expect 25-45kt winds with gusts as high as 60kt over our outer waters. No rain with either system, just crazy pressure gradients that will force winds from high in the atmosphere to mix down to the surface. As for that weekend event - look for building swell Saturday, biggest late - 6-10ft deepwater (275 - 295), bigger Sunday - 8-12ft deepwater, fading some Monday 6-10ft deepwater - and then a steady fade into next week. May see lighter winds all weekend - especially mornings. NO rain in the forecast, in fact it looks like 2013 will end up as the driest year on record - dating back to the 1850s. We are in a world of shit when it comes to water - so do your part now and start conserving. No indication this high pressure ridge is going to leave us for the winter. cya in the water.
Saturday, December 14, 2013
Great conditions on tap with offshore winds the next few days. Solid swell today and tomorrow - deepwater 5-8 ft - then much larger surf on Monday with deepwater 10-15ft. Big wave spots will see surf in the 18-20ft range on Monday. Cya in the water.
at 4:44 PM
Sunday, December 8, 2013
New West swell will fill in Monday and stick around through Tuesday. Look for head to slightly overhead waves at the best facing breaks. Offshore winds most of this week - maybe an afternoon sea breeze of sorts. Fun size surf really through Friday. Cya in the water.
at 5:02 PM
Monday, December 2, 2013
Swell still 5.5ft at 12 from 270+ - winds coming up a bit and will really start to blow from the north and northwest tomorrow as a very cold system drops south out of British Columbia. Could see freezing temps at the Coast by Thursday/Friday morning - and very cold temps in the 20s inland. No rain to speak of - however models are hinting at that possibility for next weekend and beyond. Swell wise this week - mix of north and northwest windswell will be the rule really - and winds are going to probably make a mess of it from Tuesday on. Sheltered spots will probably be best, but also small given the short period nature of the swells on tap. So, good week to get back to work. Keep an eye on the winds and swell, know your spots and you might find something to ride. ***Side note - NOAA released it's buoy recovery and repair list for 2014 and none of the CA Buoys that are out - are on the list to be repaired and redeployed. Thanks NOAA. Papa and CA will remain off the grid for the season. Cya in the water.
at 11:45 AM
Tuesday, November 26, 2013
Super clean conditions today with small waves. That will change quickly tomorrow night as a strong west (265-295) swell fills in rapidly. Thanksgiving will dawn with booming conditions - deepwater 8-10ft ++ with long periods. Unlike most of the swell events so far this season - this has quite a bit of westerly angle - so breaks that favor big west/northwest swells will be rocking. Winds look really good for Thursday and Friday. Might even see decent winds for Saturday. By Sunday, nw winds may ramp up some. Swell right through Sunday as we get a reinforcing shot of waves for Sat/Sun. Plenty to ride, cya in the water.
at 9:23 PM
Friday, November 22, 2013
Surf will be small to flat this weekend depending on your location. N Pac swell machine has gone to sleep and all we really have is northerly windswell from 325 plus. Really the story of our season so far - extreme angle smaller swells as the Eastern part of the North Pacific has been the most active. So grab a log or go golf. Things may improve early next week - but just by a touch. Cya in the water.
at 11:00 AM
Monday, November 18, 2013
Good size storm system organizing about 700 miles offshore this morning will bring badly needed rain to most of central and northern California over the next 3-4 days. Heaviest amounts north of SF but looks like everyone will get in on the action starting late tonight in Sonoma County. Swell wise, doesn't look to hot this week - going to be mostly windswell and smaller north swell right through next Saturday. Might be some windows in between bands of rain and wind - but this might be a good week to get some work done. After this week's rain event high pressure will build back in which will give us an extended period of dry weather thru Thanksgiving. Cya in the water.
at 8:11 AM
Thursday, November 14, 2013
Dense fog has returned to the region as high pressure clamps down overhead. There are a few storm systems diving into the Great Basin over the next couple days and that will ramp up the north winds which should scour out the fog. It will also create generally sloppy conditions with short period windswell forecast to pick up and last through Saturday morning. Not sure how clean it's going to be anywhere - check the winds in the mornings. Cya in the water.
at 10:16 AM
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
Meager storm tried to bring badly needed rain to the region overnight - but lost the battle. HIgh pressure regains control and looks to stick around for the next two weeks. We're currently enjoying the driest calendar year on record (going back to 1850). Fun size surf will remain all week - and we should see periods of offshore winds/good morning conditions through the weekend and probably into next week as well. Might see stronger winds in the afternoon hours - but mornings should be good. Cya in the water and do what you can to conserve water.
at 7:57 AM
Friday, November 8, 2013
Fun size wnw swell tomorrow - waist to head high - with slightly overhead waves at best north facing breaks. Wind should be pretty decent most of the day - then start to pick up tomorrow night. New swell will build in late and plus on Sunday with deepwater in the 4-7ft range. Keep an eye on winds Sunday, may turn south as an approaching cold front comes in late Sunday. Chance of rain Monday night into Tuesday - then high pressure builds back in which should lead to nice conditions. Cya in the water.
at 9:27 PM
Sunday, November 3, 2013
New long period northwest swell showing far northern buoys - 8-9 ft 20 seconds. Swell will top out Tuesday and Wednesday with well overhead to double overhead waves likely at north facing breaks. Looks like we'll have offshore/light ne winds the next two mornings for sure - with light afternoon winds. Surf to fade just a bit Thursday and Friday - but still feature overhead surf at west/north facing breaks. Global weather models hinting at a major pattern change next week with the storm door opening. A bit too far out right now to give much weight to the forecast - but something to monitor. Next two mornings should be good for those who like the big stuff. Cya in the water.
at 3:54 PM
Tuesday, October 29, 2013
Light Am winds the next three days - with very cold temps early Wednesday morning in the North Bay with low to mid 30s. Overlapping small northwest swells will keep surf in the fun size. Winds come up again late week - as will the swell - as another cold front pushing to our north. No rain in forecast for SF and parts north. Not digging the high pressure ridge establishing itself - doesn't bode well for early season rains and sand bar development at spots that like weather. We'll see what unfolds. Cya in the water.
at 6:27 PM
Friday, October 25, 2013
Saturday, October 19, 2013
Small surf prevails - with fog back at the coast. Things should remain on the small side until late Sunday night when early forerunners of the swell from former Typhoon Wipha start to show - deepwater 4-6ft at 20-23 seconds. By mid day Monday, look for 6-8 ft at 18-20 seconds and during the peak of this event we might see larger sets in the 10-15ft range. Swell angle 309 deg. A few things about this forecast. First, this storm developed quite far from Northern CA. Second, the main life cycle of this storm has been in the very far northern latitudes of the N Pac - not ideal for swell angle into N Cal. So expect long lulls, but when the energy does come - especially during the peak of the event and peak tides - expect things to pack a good punch. Wind forecast not ideal for early next week - NOAA still saying nw winds each day over the coastal waters - but they are forecast to stay light - so morning will probably be the best windows. Cya in the water.
at 8:53 AM
Monday, October 14, 2013
Should be offshore most of the week - especially for am sessions. No big surf - just fun size back to back pulses of northwest swell and windswell. A bit bigger Wednesday/Thursday. Next large swell event looks likely for next week - as an old typhoon is going to go extratropical off Japan, get caught in the westerlies and head our way with swell. More on that later in the week. Cya in the water.
at 7:41 PM
Friday, October 11, 2013
Small mix of northwest windswell and southwest groundswell for the weekend. Waist to shoulder high- maybe some bigger sets during favorable tides. Winds look lightest for the AM sessions - stronger afternoon flow. Fog and low clouds hanging around. Not too much interesting on the long term right now - waiting on the North Pac to really get busy and shift the season into high gear. Cya in the water.
at 7:27 PM
Wednesday, October 9, 2013
Windswell is 12ft at 10-11 sec from 310 plus. Winds are actually lighter than forecast nearshore, but still blowing strong over the outer waters. Storm system has dropped down south out of BC, right now going down the spine of the sierra dropping some early season snow. No rain forecast for us, just cooler temps and breezy. Things should improve more Thursday and Friday - swell will drop through the period and we should have light AM winds, but probably stronger afternoon onshores. No pure offshore period forecast, in fact the extended into next week shows more of an onshore component to our weather. Should be waves to ride, just check the winds. Cya in the water.
at 7:50 AM
Thursday, October 3, 2013
Water temps are dropping with the strong northwest winds - Bodega Buoy showing 48 F. No real data available closer in since the NOAA SF Buoy isn't reporting temp and the Half Moon Bay Buoy is now offline too. With more and more buoys failing or offline it will become harder in the near future to get a good sense of what is going on in the outer waters and it's most dangerous for fisherman and commercial marine transport. In the meantime, we work with what we have. The rest of the week will feature northwest windswell/mid period groundswell in the 3-6ft range. Conditions should clean up late tonight as the winds veer from northwest to northeast and offshore. So the next few mornings "should" feature cleaner conditions with cold water temps. No significant swell on the charts yet - but models are hinting at perhaps another good shot late next week. Cya in the water.
at 8:02 AM
Monday, September 30, 2013
Macking northwest swell started to fire late yesterday and will peak today. Steep angle of approach - 320 - size is solid. Swell will gradually wind down thru Wednesday. Smaller surf on tap for the rest of the week beyond that and into the weekend. Storm system is passing through today and we will see a few days of northwest winds (especially outer waters) and perhaps turning more offshore late in the week. Plenty to ride if you know where to look - check the winds. cya in the water.
at 8:20 AM
Thursday, September 26, 2013
Active storm track just to our north is creating very strong northwest winds that may flirt with moments of offshore over the next 24-36 hours (unlikely at the coast however). Swell remains good size at 6-10 ft deepwater (larger farther north). Looking for lighter morning winds from Friday to Sunday and size will drop down into a fun zone 3-5 ft deepwater Friday, a tad smaller Saturday, then rapid increase in surf height on Sunday (late) when a new swell runs in pushing heights back up to 6-10ft deepwater for Monday. Fall is here, the North Pacific is active and we will continue to see plenty of surf for the next seven days. Slight chance of rain again for the North Bay late Sunday, into Monday. Swell angles remain pretty steep for most of these events - 300-325, as the energy is gaining the most traction in the Eastern Gulf of Alaska. Cya in the water.
at 8:21 AM
Monday, September 23, 2013
.MARINE...AS OF 2:00 PM PDT MONDAY...THE FIRST NOTABLE SWELL OF THE OF THE FALL SEASON WILL BUILD OVER THE COASTAL WATERS TODAY THANKS TO A STORM SYSTEM CURRENTLY IN THE GULF OF ALASKA. MODEL GUIDANCE...INCLUDING THE LOCAL SWAN MODEL...CONTINUES TO INDICATE BUILDING SWELL NEAR 300 DEG AT OR ABOVE 10 FEET BY THIS EVENING AND INTO TONIGHT. A MODERATE PERIOD OF 14-15 SECONDS WILL ALSO ACCOMPANY THE BUILDING SWELL. THE HIGHER SWELL WILL LIKELY LAST THROUGH THURSDAY BEFORE DIMINISHING FRIDAY.
at 7:38 PM
Thursday, September 19, 2013
First storm of the Fall season is generating a swell train that will build late Friday and then peak saturday with 8-12ft deepwater forecast. First potential rain of the season is also coming in with it - late Friday into Saturday - but might be a North Bay only event with only scattered showers from SF south. Solid swell left on Sunday and fading some into Monday. Next bigger shot comes in Tuesday - also 8-12ft deepwater - perhaps bigger. Winds are going to be an issue the next five or so days. With the front on Friday/Saturday - probably see south winds come up with the advance of the storm. Then behind, cool northwest flow is forecast with strong winds through the week as the jetstream gets quite active just to our north all next week. Fall is here for sure - storms are working through the Gulf of Alaska - so plenty to ride - just keep an eye/check the winds. I won't be updating this report until Sept 25 as i will be out for a few days. Cya in the water.
at 7:46 AM
Monday, September 16, 2013
New northwest swell peaking tomorrow - right now 4-5 ft at 12 sec from 300-310. Winds are blowing fairly strong from the north/northwest. Next few days should feature north winds and less fog, and even though winds wont be offshore, could see some warmer/sunny days at the coast. By the end of the week - our first storm system of the Fall will come through with a chance or rain Friday into Saturday morning. This storm will also kick up a good size northwest swell - the first and biggest of the season so far - with forecast heights 6-10 ft deepwater for Saturday and Sunday. Swell looks to stick around with some reinforcing shots of northwest swell through early next week. So, plenty to ride coming up - just keep an eye on the winds as we don't have any real "clean" wind days ahead - but might find some good windows. Cya in the water.
at 11:02 PM
Saturday, September 14, 2013
Northwest winds howling for the past 3 days now. We still have small amount of northwest swell left from the event two days ago - but fading fast. Southwest swell has taken over as primary source of waves - deepwater 1.8 to 2 ft at 17 from 185 or so. Winds are suppose to ease overnight as the pressure gradient begins to relax, but don't expect pristine conditions for Sunday. Next NW swell looks to get in here mid week - could be on par with this past event, perhaps a bit bigger. More on that in a few days. Until then, slim pickens. Check the winds, maybe you'll find someplace to surf. Cya in the water.
Wednesday, September 11, 2013
Deepwater swell starting to show far northern buoys - 3-5 ft at 18-20 seconds. Swell will start to show here late today and start peaking during the day on Thursday. Should see 4-6 ft deepwater with 17-20 second periods. Nothing huge, but compared to what we've had it's going to feel bigger. Winds remain onshore with fog and low clouds, but should stay on the light side. Check the winds for sure. Swell will stick around thru Friday, fading out Saturday. Cya in the water.
at 3:32 PM
Sunday, September 8, 2013
Fall is here. Good weekend behind us and a nice pulse of northwest swell to look forward to for Thursday and Friday. Low pressure system is tracking in the Gulf (remains of former TS Toraji) which will send in a good hit of northwest swell (290-305) starting late Wednesday, peaking Thursday and hanging around thru Friday. Top winter breaks go 1-2 ft overhead during the peak of the swell on Thursday. Winds look lightest thru the mornings this week - with a stronger seabreeze for each afternoon. For sure check the winds during the week as the forecast is higly variable. We have no outer buoys working (Papa and CA have both been offline for a while now) and no date for re-deployment, courtesy of NOAA and their budget cuts. It will make forecasting incoming swell trains much more difficult this season. Best to look at the far northern buoys and the Pt Reyes buoy to get a handle on size as swells get close. Cya in the water.
at 10:16 PM
Thursday, September 5, 2013
Back to some marginal conditions again at least for today. NW wind is on it and blowing hard at the outer waters. That should take a few degrees off the water temp for the weekend. Windswell will also increase tonight and tomorrow and a new mid period northwest swell will come in Friday and last into Sunday. Right now looks like surf will be in the 4-6 ft range on Friday (deepwater) and 3-5ft on Saturday into Sunday. High pressure is building into the Great Basin, while thermal low pressure is going to build on the coast. What this should do is drive temps up, the flow should switch from onshore to offshore and we will see warmer temps at the coast. That's the forecast, we'll see if the wind direction and warm temps make it to the coast. I'm still a bit skeptical given the strong nw winds that are forecast to blow over the outer waters most of the weekend. For sure winds will be lightest in the mornings Friday to Sunday - so check it. Cya in the water.
Monday, September 2, 2013
Looks like September today - winds not really a factor all day - and certainly didn't end up as forecast. Look for locally light winds the next two mornings - PM winds will be stronger, but not much. We had a nice pulse of northwest windswell today - deep water 3-4 ft at 10-12 seconds from around 300. Swell will stick around tomorrow and then begin to fade. Weather models are now hinting at perhaps some offshore flow later in the week as a low drags into the Great Basin. This should coincide with more windswell and then a larger pulse of Gulf swell - more on both of those events Wednesday. Cya in the water.
at 5:14 PM
Sunday, September 1, 2013
September 1st. We made it through another summer. Small pulse of northwest windswell from 285-310 continues today with waist/shoulder high waves at better breaks. Small southwest continues too. Winds are mostly onshore as fog continues to hug the coast. In the Gulf of Alaska - stationary low pressure circulation will drive another similar size northwest pulse in here Monday into Tuesday. Winds look to remain problematic - lightest in the mornings. In the long range (next weekend) we might see our first real shot of northwest swell (overhead sets) as a low pressure system just coming out of the Bering Sea will drop into the Gulf of Alaska early in the week, develop winds over the sea surface and bring us swell. I'll have an update on that Wednesday, as well as a look ahead at coastal winds to see how conditions will be. Cya in the water.
at 12:40 PM
Friday, August 30, 2013
You know it almost looked a bit like Fall today for a short while at the beach. Fun southwest and northwest windswell peaking today, should still be around tomorrow for chest high sets at breaks that like the combo swell. Winds, probably lightest early most of the weekend. Swell will fade through Sunday. Long term is looking more promising with our first possible small northwest swell of the season a week out. It's just a blip on the models right now - but i'll get it dialed in early next week. I think tomorrow is the best day of the weekend. Cya in the water.
at 7:51 PM
Wednesday, August 28, 2013
Well, we've almost made it. September 1 looms. Now we just need the weather and surf to act like we're almost into Fall. Fog, onshores and small surf prevail at present - although winds are light this morning. Look for an increase in northwest windswell and southwest groundswell for Friday/Saturday - nothing beyond 2-3ft mind you - but a bit bigger than we've had of late. Not tracking anything from the North Pacific or South Pacific beyond that. Weak low pressure is anchored in the Gulf of Alaska with some wind associated and impulses moving thru - this will probably serve to keep the windswell going. Upcoming weekend does look a bit on the slow side surf wise. More on that later in the week. Cya in the water.
at 11:56 AM
Friday, August 23, 2013
Looks like small windswell and background south swell for the weekend - and mostly onshore winds and fog at the coast. Winds will be lightest in the early mornings. Look for the windswell to come up a bit late today into Saturday - but overall it's looking pretty poor. Long range not showing that much yet, from either hemisphere. Cya in the water.
at 1:21 PM
Friday, August 16, 2013
Small WNW windswell - both from the Gulf and localized remains in the water. Minimal background SW dribbles too. While the North Pacific is showing more activity, no groundswells on the charts yet - however we will see ongoing WNW mid period swell (8-11sec) from Sunday thru next Tuesday. Issue remains the onshore winds and fog. Best to check early AM's for the lightest winds. Could see the pressure gradient relax enough next week for some cleaner morning sessions. Waiting on the jetstream to get more active. The only thing that will break up the pattern will be for storm energy to start hitting Oregon and Washington, dive into the Great Basin and give us offshore or at best some north wind flow. No sign of that yet. Cya in the water.
at 11:14 AM
Tuesday, August 13, 2013
at 2:37 PM
Sunday, August 11, 2013
Upcoming week will feature onshore winds and fog at the coast - lightest winds early, and sheltered spots will probably be the cleanest. Blocking high pressure down under is keeping the storm track zonal. Probably have to wait until the end of the month for the pattern to change and perhaps send up some swells. In the meantime, really waiting for more signs of life in the North Pacific/Gulf of Alaska. Could see some short to mid period west northwest groundswell by next weekend from a couple storms that are forecast to pull together in the Gulf - however with the windswell in the water it will be hard to notice. Cya in the water.
at 6:42 PM
Tuesday, August 6, 2013
The local cams and spot checks seem stuck on pause - fog, onshore, small, crappy. Seems like it's been that way for an eternity at this point in the summer. There is a storm circulation out in the Nor Pac which will send us a very small pulse of mid period/windswell by the weekend - but it's going to be fairly insignificant and probably hard to detect with the local windswell. That's about all the hope i have for all of us as we move into Mid August. Southern hemi has gone to sleep for with no storms producing swell this week - fog and low clouds and onshore winds to continue - with winds "lightest" for the morning sessions. Good week to get work done and maybe plan a trip to warmer waters. September is one day closer and hopefully this stubborn weather pattern will break down soon. Cya in the water.
at 7:39 AM
Friday, August 2, 2013
Look for another small pulse of southwest swell to fill in over the weekend - probably showing late Saturday and sticking around through Sunday. Spots that favor a southwest swell will be the call. Winds will remain onshore - but lightest in the mornings and some protected spots might have little to no wind during the early mornings. Windswell around too - and still watching for a bit of a bump in the northwest windswell around Aug 4-5 - from a small storm that formed this past week in the Gulf of AK. No luck on our potential tropical swell from the former Hurricane Gil - he was too small to generate anything decent for Nor Cal. Surf early and keep your expectations low. Cya in the water.
at 7:45 PM
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Inconsistent SW swell pulsing up tonight - 3.6 ft at 17 seconds. Not bad when it shows. But the lulls are long. This swell should hang around for two more days. Winds are still an issue, but lightest in the mornings. Of more interest, some very minor storm activity starting to show in the North Pac. Could see some small pulses of mid period north windswell the first few days in August (next week) if everything comes together as forecast. I'll keep an eye on it - but it's encouraging. Also - Tropical Storm Gil has formed 700 miles sw of Cabo - will move northwest over the next few days and if it stays on that course - we could see a shot of tropical swell up here around Aug 4-5th. Cya in the water.
at 10:54 PM
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Dog, dog days. Onshore winds, small surf. Good weekend to find something else to do around these parts. Fog remains at the coast, no swell of interest from any direction to speak of. It's almost August. A few subtle signs of change already in spots - but we have a few more weeks to go before I get too damn excited. Hang in there. Cya in the water.
at 8:22 AM
Monday, July 22, 2013
Southwest swell most of the week along with increasing north windswell. Plenty to ride, but winds will continue to be an issue with southwest flow at the surface. Might find some windows here and there - stay on the wind links. It's almost August - we're getting closer to Sept 1 - just hang in there.
cya in the water.
cya in the water.
at 5:55 PM
Thursday, July 11, 2013
Small south swell in the water - 2-2.5ft at 14-17 seconds. We will see a bit bigger push into the weekend from the storm that slammed South America and Central America this past week. Unfortunately, due to the extreme angle of approach (165-180) from the south - many spots wont pick up the energy. Best bet is going to be So Cal, and closer breaks to our south. There are spots up here that will harness that angle, if you know where to look. Looking farther ahead - the end of next week a larger southwest swell will approach. This swell has a better direction 200-225 - and should be a pretty decent event. Northwest to onshore winds look the rule for the extended. Lightest in the mornings. I'm in Mexico next week chasing that upcoming swell - so there won't be any reports until July 22. Cya in the water.
at 7:41 AM
Friday, July 5, 2013
Happy 4th of July weekend. Water temps tumbled six degrees overnight - from a comfortable 60 degrees down to 54 this afternoon as the north south gradient ramped up and gale force northwest winds are whipping across the outer waters. Swell is 10ft at 10 sec from 325-330. South swell is barely a trace. The heat wave is over and we will return to more typical summer weather - fog and low clouds near the coast with seasonal temps inland. Windswell the primary source of waves for the next several days. Winds should begin to let up Saturday over the outer waters and around the Bay Area look for south to southwest winds both Saturday and Sunday morning. You might find something to ride, just dont expect a miracle. Cya in the water.
at 4:09 PM
Thursday, June 27, 2013
Winds at this hour are much lighter than forecast - last night was actually pretty epic - front passed, gradients dropped to nothing and the WNW swell pulsed nice at north facing breaks. This AM, WNW is fading a tad - 5.8 ft at 12 seconds - as a new pulse of SW swell begins to show - 2.8ft at 17. The forecast still calls for winds to start to increase from the northwest today - as high pressure builds from the East which should trigger the winds to jump given the big difference in pressure (land to sea). WNW swell will hang around as will the SW swell for the remainder of the week. SW swell to be the main feature this coming weekend. It's going to get very hot inland as high pressure peaks early next week. If the high pressure moves far enough to the coast, we might see light winds (especially mornings) - otherwise, it's forecast to remain foggy near the beach with onshore winds - while just a few miles inland it could be extremely hot. One of those heat events you need to keep an eye on the winds and if you get a window - hit it. Cya in the water.
at 7:54 AM
Monday, June 24, 2013
An unusually strong Pacific weather system will be affecting both our weather and waves for the next week. Rain in the forecast at times through at least Tuesday. The system will kick up a longer period WNW swell with well overhead waves forecast at top winter spots for Wed/Thurs - smaller surf Friday into the weekend from the same event. but still something to ride. Winds will continue to be the issue - south to southwest winds from the storm the next 24-36 hours, then changing back to northwest flow. So finding something clean to ride will require some hunting. Cya in the water.
at 7:08 AM
Sunday, June 16, 2013
Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Hope you found some waves during our recent southwest swell. Was a tricky few days with the winds not ideal, but there were some memorable waves up and down the coast. We're back to reality again this week - nw wind and nw windswell. The windswell will continue to grow through mid week and then fade into the weekend. Background southwest swell remains in the water, but quite small. A longboard, patience and you might find something to ride at a spot protected from the winds. September is only 2 1/2 months away or so. Cya in the water.
at 8:04 AM
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Seeing some 3-4ft at 22-23 second energy at Monterey Buoy and SF Bar. Swell just starting to show and will fill in today. Should be some decent size by sunset. Look for surf through the weekend and typical June weather - warm inland, fog at the coast. Winds look to remain out of the west through the period, but might be better the further north you go. The good news for this swell is the wind offshore has been lighter so we wont see as much swell degradation as it moves into our coastal waters. Cya in the water. **note - the 2013 tide link is acting wonky this morning so use the NOAA link i've added until they correct the situation.
at 8:16 AM
Sunday, June 2, 2013
Large storm complex down under has whipped up a decent south swell which should start to show around our shores Wednesday with long period forerunners (25 sec) in the afternoon. Swell will fill in and trend up on Thursday with deepwater forecast in the 3-4ft range at 20-22 seconds. Swell holds Friday as period drops into the 18-19 second range - and residual swell still showing Saturday as period drops to 17 seconds. This swell will probably be on par with the last south a couple weeks back, perhaps a tad bigger. Much will depend on the northwest winds at the time and if it's shredding all the way down the coast to Pt Conception - expect this swell to come in smaller. Souths that get a lot of hype rarely live up to it around our part of the world. There are certain spots that will harness the energy, but even those spots can be very fickle depending on the direction of the swell, tide and wind. If you've surfed up here a long time, you already know this. Points further south always fair much better. Should be impressive when it hits Mexico and So Cal - we will see what we get. Cya in the water.
at 10:52 AM
Monday, May 27, 2013
Mix of small southwest and northwest groundswells continued today - but winds were on it early and stayed pretty much on it all day. Look for nw winds the rest of the week - but plenty of swell if you can find a spot clean to ride it. South/southwest pulses to continue, a new nw groundswell and then late week - windswell should get pretty good size (head to overhead) as we roll into the weekend. Cya in the water.
at 6:43 PM
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
SW/SSW groundswell will continue (190-215) - keeping the surf up at south facing breaks through the weekend and into early next week. Long period forerunners from a late season storm in the N Pac will begin to roll in Thursday. Swell is from 290-300 and will build further Friday and hold through Saturday, fading out Sunday. At it's peak, look for chest - head high sets with overhead sets at north facing breaks (which wont likely be rideable due to the NW winds).
Winds and water temps: Water temps have plummeted back to the upper 40s - due to the ongoing gale force winds in our outer waters. Winds are going to continue from the northwest through the holiday weekend. Find protection from those winds and you'll find plenty of surf to ride for late May. Cya in the water.
at 4:27 PM
Saturday, May 18, 2013
This morning north/northwest winds are blowing outer waters - still seeing mainly windswell, however Santa Cruz is starting to see long period forerunners of the much hyped about south swell that hit Tahiti early in the week and then Hawaii. We wont see as much size naturally this far north, however should be a decent run of swell coming for the next week or so. Swell will filter in slowly today and tonight and be more on the rise Sunday. By Monday/Tuesday - the first pulse of this swell will peak and then we will see reinforcing shots through the end of the week. Look for deepwater swell to range 3-5ft with periods 17-19 seconds. Winds are going to shift northerly tonight and Sunday, then possibly a bit offshore on Monday. Thereafter probably see a return to onshore winds/northwest winds as a strong low pressure system drops down from BC and pushes the fog and low clouds back in. So get some the next couple days for sure. Cya in the water.
at 9:09 AM
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Light rain may return to the region starting tomorrow - moving north to south during the day as a fairly strong late season storm moves ashore. Rain will be on the light side and gone by Friday. Northwest winds are blowing this morning and should continue to do so for the next few days. By the weekend and in particular on Sunday, long period forerunners will begin to show (late in the day) as a good run of southwest to south swell (200-215 degrees) hits California. Spots that work well with a southwest swell could see head high and at times larger sets as the swell peaks on Monday/Tuesday. After the initial pulse, smaller events will continue good size surf for most of next week. I'll get a better handle on size once the swell enters the So Cal window and begins to move up the coast. Winds look lighter for late Sunday and Monday, which will help prevent a lot of swell decay for the first part of the event. Since it's May, winds are always suspect around these parts - so know your spots and check the wind links and you'll find something to ride next week. Cya in the water.
at 7:11 AM
Sunday, May 12, 2013
NW windswell will be the primary source of energy through most of the upcoming week. Look for deepwater size running in the 3-5 ft range Monday and Tuesday. Small south moves in Monday/Tuesday, but probably wont be very noticeable unless you're some place that can focus the energy. Next pulse of stronger south swell looks to be around May 20-22 - and to continue for a few days after. Onshore winds, fog the norm at the coast thru the period. Cya in the water.
at 4:30 PM
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Well, couple nice days and things have gone back into the toilet as we go through the weekend. Very strong south/southeast winds started ramping up late afternoon and will continue thru Sunday as an area of low pressure moves through the state from east to west (very unusual) while at the same time another low pressure system moves towards us from the open ocean. These two systems will combine sometime around late Sunday into Monday and bring a very slight chance of rain to the region. Biggest story will be the winds. Small mix of southwest windswell and northwest windswell looks to be the rule for the next few days, getting much smaller from Wednesday on. So not looking like a great week ahead for stellar surf days. Get what you can. Cya in the water.
at 10:30 PM
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Sunday, April 28, 2013
NW windswell on the rise tonight as high pressure to our east and north has increased the wind flow over the outer waters. Should see surf in the 3-5 ft range on Monday - with short periods - 8-9 seconds. By Tuesday, windswell should crank up a bit more to 4-6ft deep water with periods 10-11 seconds. Fading Wednesday and thru the end of the week. A southwest swell will begin to fill in Wednesday and stick around thru the end of the week as well. Nothing huge, probably deepwater in the 3 ft range. Warm temps the next week inland and there may be a few days where the warmth makes it all the way to the coast. Winds are worth checking for the AM sessions. I expect most afternoons will see increased northwest/onshore flow. Cya in the water.
at 9:25 PM
Monday, April 22, 2013
Small windswell and background south swell in the water this morning. 3-5 ft at 8-9 sec - and 1.5 ft at 14-17 sec. Winds are light right now and will pick up later in the day from the northwest. Forecast is calling for East winds Tuesday am, but i'm a bit suspect of that. We'll see what happens. Otherwise, southerly surge of fog and wind will get underway later in the week and put an end to this little heat wave. The only upside is that it should bring water temps back up above the 50 degree mark late in the week. Swell wise - windswell/small pulses of northwest Gulf swell through the period along with an increasing south/southwest swell from about Wednesday on. Check the winds early, be flexible and you might find some surf. Cya in the water.
at 7:42 AM
Thursday, April 18, 2013
Orion setting in the western sky early. We are moving into spring with windswell plentiful, but some south swell action here and there. Small background souths up until the end of the month (steep angle too) - then we might see a decent run of south swell end of April into early May. The N Pac has gone to sleep for the season. Might see a few small pulses from the northwest between now and the end of April. Winds have lightened up some, but we will still see nw wind flow through the period. Might be a few mornings where the flow is light enough for a session - always good to check the winds and surf early this time of year. Cya in the water.
at 10:55 PM
Monday, April 15, 2013
Northwest winds continue to shred the outer waters and the upwelling machine is in full effect. Would not be surprised to see water temps fall to 46 in the next couple days. Quite cold for around here. Spring in Nor Cal. Front moved through last night and we have another wind event lining up for this afternoon and evening - followed by northwest winds the remainder of the week. Windswell will be the rule, then mid week a small south swell will join in (probably 2-3 ft at 17-18 sec) - but I imagine it will be smaller than forecast in our region given the fact the swell will come up the coast pushing against nw winds the entire way. So, protected spots the call and a warm wetsuit. Cya in the water.
at 7:13 AM
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
One look at local beach cams today tells it all - nw winds and victory at sea. At the height of the wind event late Sunday into Monday - water temps tumbled 4 degrees in about five hours. Winds will blow most of the day and probably start to let up overnight. But the damage is done with large, choppy windswell in the water and minor southwest swell. The rest of the week looks trashed - nw winds the entire time - best bet would be spots protected from the winds. Spring has arrived in Nor Cal. Cya in the water.
at 11:01 AM
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Another beneficial storm is moving out of the region tonight. We will see an increase in surf from the wnw starting late tomorrow - as long period forerunners will come in - 3-5ft at 20 seconds - with good size sets probably by sunset. Saturday and Sunday will feature 8-10 ft deepwater - good for double overhead sets at north facing breaks. Ditto on Monday. Problem is going to be the winds - forecast to be light onshore most of the time - not ideal - but probably best to check winds early to see if you can catch a window. High pressure is going to set up, however storm systems may brush the very far north bay during the weekend. Plenty of surf on tap - just going to take some hunting. Cya in the water.
at 4:28 PM
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Long period northwest swell filling in - deepwater 3-5 at 17 seconds. There is also a short period southwest swell at 4-6 at 8-10 seconds - this is from the storm system moving through our region tonight. Look for fairly light morning winds through mid week - from south to northwest, highly variable - so worth a check for the AM sessions to see what the wind is doing. Dry Tues/Wed - then another small storm comes in Wed night into Thursday. More rain forecast next Sunday/Monday too. Then it looks like spring time high pressure may take control. Should be surf on tap most of the week - nothing large - just small to mid size pulses from the north and south. Biggest challenge will be the winds. All n' all - could be a lot worse for the first week in April. Cya in the water.
at 9:41 PM
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Nice mix of north swell tonight at 5-7 ft at 17 seconds and southwest 2ft at 14-17 seconds. Winds remain the issue blowing from the west. Doesn't really look to clean up until maybe Friday when we could see some light offshore flow for the morning only. Very weak storm systems are just brushing the region, but not bringing any rain. By the weekend, a cut off low will drop down from the Gulf of Alaska and bring us a better shot at some rain, actually starting around Friday. Winds are going to be highly variable over the next 3-5 days - so give it a check now and then and if you have a window you might get lucky. Plenty of surf to ride (for the time of year). Saturday looks the smallest day coming up - with a new pulse of northwest swell due in Sunday late. Check the winds - cya in the water.
at 10:52 PM
Thursday, March 21, 2013
NW winds are gusting to 23kt over outer waters, water temp is 49 and falling. Very short period windswell is in the water at 6-9 ft at 6-8 seconds from 255 plus. It's actually a combination of west windswell from yesterday's storm and north windswell from the strong winds. A larger west swell will move in later today - buoys north are showing 10 ft at 12 seconds - so that may give us something to ride later at breaks protected from the winds. Winds will increase further overnight and be strong on Friday. West swell will continue Friday and then fade over the weekend - leaving us with small surf and generally junk conditions at anything facing west or north. You might find something to ride at protected spots, but they will be on the small side. Dark days my friends. Desperation surfs become the norm, a good attitude can make 5 second windswell look fun and it's time to reconnect with friends, family and your boss and get back to work. Hang in there, Fall is only six months away. Cya in the water.
at 7:47 AM
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Sorry for the late update - was in Texas the past few days (no surf in Texas to speak of). Around here, northwest winds are blowing hard tonight and we have short period windswell making a mess of things. Storm system to our west will arrive Tuesday night and linger until Thursday bringing much needed rain to the region. Winds will be northwest/west Monday and Tuesday, turing south Tuesday night into Wednesday, back to northwest for the remainder of the week. Small west swell with background southwest swell most of the week - then swell will increase from the west Thursday/Friday as the inbound storm will whip up shorter period swell for the region. Probably good for head high and bigger at west/northwest facing breaks on Thursday and Friday. All n' all, a good week to probably get some work done, however if you know where to look and how spots respond to different wind directions you might find something to ride. Glad to be back in Cali - cya in the water.
at 9:59 PM
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
Small west swell most of this week - probably waist to head high (touch bigger at times) - and the most size at north/northwest facing breaks. Warm temps inland the next two days, but fog remains at the coast as light onshore flow is pretty persistent, even with high pressure overhead. Winds have been light onshore and should remain that way into Wednesday, but then pick up towards the end of the week as high pressure moves off and low pressure well to our north increases the onshore push of fog and low clouds. It looks like winter is over for us, models hinting at perhaps a chance of rain again middle of next week - but i think that's wishful model thinking. The pattern we've been in since January is pretty rock solid and once the normal springtime high pressure sets up in the Gulf of Alaska it's game over for the storm track. So, surf early, keep an eye on the winds and you might get something to ride. Cya in the water.
at 1:14 PM
Friday, March 8, 2013
NW winds are howling behind frontal passage this morning. Storm has passed, long period nw swell is filling in at 5-7 ft at 18-20 seconds. Look for this swell to peak on Saturday, size drops Sunday. Winds will be an issue the next 36 hours or so, then we "might" see lighter AM winds for Sunday. Beyond, high pressure builds in, temps warm inland, nw winds over water and it's looking a lot like Spring. Find protection from the winds, surf early. Cya in the water.
at 8:48 AM
Sunday, March 3, 2013
March 1 is historically the official end of the winter wave season for Central/Northern CA. Almost on cue, the northwest wind machine just picks up and blows, like she's doing now. We have plenty of swell in the water and that should continue through the week - so it's not all bad. Find wind protected spots and you'll find something to ride. Rain comes in Tuesday night, lasting through Thursday - then high pressure builds in again towards next weekend. Overhead surf pretty much all week at north facing breaks, smaller south facing. Cya in the water.
at 5:34 PM
Wednesday, February 27, 2013
Deepwater around 6-8 ft this morning at 14 seconds from 295. Look for solid surf to continue for the next five days, dropping a tad Friday (but still overhead) and jumping back up Saturday/Sunday. Worth checking the winds for morning sessions, but as we're moving towards March, unlikely you will find cleaner PM conditions unless you hit a break protected from the winds. Very small chance of rain Saturday late, as a weak system brushes to our north. A better chance of precip by next Wednesday as a stronger system comes ashore. NW winds will be the rule between systems at this point. Plenty of swell, check the winds, know your spots and you'll find a place to ride. cya in the water.
at 11:30 AM
Friday, February 22, 2013
Large swell train forecast to impact the region late Saturday night through Sunday - with deepwater swell forecast 15-19 ft with long periods & steep angle 300-330 (biggest north). Northwest winds appear to be setting up as the calendar moves closer to March, however worth checking each morning as the winds nearshore could remain on the light side. Water temps are dropping with the winds, 49 and falling. Spring time high pressure ruling the Pacific diverting the storm track up into BC and down into the Great Basin. NO rain forecast through early March and my guess is we will see very little rain for the remainder of the winter as this highly unusual blocking winter high will only get stronger when we get into March and April. Storms are still active in the North Pac - just tracking very high latitude, so we're seeing much steeper angle swells - which is very typical as the seasons change. Plenty of surf on tap the next five days. If you know where to look you'll find something to ride. Cya in the water.
at 10:45 AM
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Cold low pressure system is through our area and impacting So Cal tonight. Behind the front, strong nw winds are blowing over the outer waters. Look for unsettled weather all week (not a ton of rain) just a lot of nw wind and good size surf right through next sunday. Deepwater swell heights will hover between 6-12ft the entire week as multiple swell events overlap. Just need to find protection from the nw wind machine and you'll score. Cya in water.
at 7:47 PM
Friday, February 15, 2013
One more nice morning in store before winds turn onshore and winter returns next week. WNW swell winding down and another new swell will start to fill in late day Saturday. Swell is 5-6ft at 14 from 290 + at the moment. Look for larger surf Saturday late into Sunday. Sets a few feet overhead to double overhead (at top north facing spots) by Sunday. Winds will be east Saturday AM - probably start to turn west Saturday PM. Sunday for sure looks like west/northwest winds. Rain comes back late Monday night through Tuesday. Looks like we might have more weather late next week. We need the rain and snow at this point - painfully dry since January 1. Cya in the water.
at 2:15 PM
Monday, February 11, 2013
High pressure is set up for the extended period. However, storm activity continues out in the north and west Pacific, so we'll have swell the entire week with lighter winds forecast, especially for AM sessions. Expect offshore winds for the mornings and some onshore flow for afternoons. Right now next "chance" of any rain is out beyond Feb 22. Just how dry has it been since we started 2013? Most cities in Nor Cal have reported less than one inch of rain through Feb 10th - breaking the record books in most cases for the driest period ever. Cya in the water.
Friday, February 8, 2013
Solid long period swell will fill in Saturday PM - expect surf heights back in the 8-12 ft range from 285 to 300. Buoys are 9ft at 14 from 310 this morning. North winds are going to be blowing behind the passing front that brought us meager amounts of rain yesterday and this morning. High pressure will once again regain control and stay that way for the next 7-10 days, if not longer. Storm systems are moving higher in the Gulf of Alaska, hence swells are coming in from a steeper angle. This is indicative of a transition to more of a spring pattern. Let's hope winter will still have something to say about that. North to northwest winds look like the rule, plenty of swell, but you'll need to find some protection to ride. Water temps hovering around 50, will likely drop below that over the next two days as winds blow on the outer waters. Especially from the Bay Area north. Cya in the water.
at 7:53 AM
Monday, February 4, 2013
WNW swell winding down today, but still solid at 8ft 13 seconds. Winds are light northwest. Look for moderate NW winds most of the week with larger northwest swell pushing in here from Wednesday to Friday. Heights will go back up in the 8-12ft deepwater range then. Light rain, cooler temps Thursday into Friday - then high pressure re builds for the weekend and beyond. Plenty of surf, find protection from the winds this week. Cya in the water.
Thursday, January 31, 2013
Ideal conditions for the the next few mornings with offshore flow. New, long period northwest swell will begin to fill in late Friday night and Saturday morning - getting quite solid Saturday afternoon with double overhead sets by sundown. Swell is 280-300. Sunday will be bigger - 10-15ft deepwater, same direction. Good AM winds. Surf should stay good size into the first of next week. Additionally, no rain forecast right now through next Wednesday, but we might finally see a bit of rain next Thursday. Side note - January was the 3rd driest month on record in SF - .49 inches of rain - going back since they started keeping records in the 1860s. Doesn't bode well for the State if this trend continues and it certainly keeps our good winter sand bars from perking up at the spots that like a wet winter. Odd season weather wise for sure. Plenty to ride, check the AM winds. Cya in the water.
at 6:52 PM
Monday, January 28, 2013
Sat photo tells the story of the week ahead. High pressure in full control pushing the storm track (longwave) pattern up into BC and down into the Central US. This is actually a good set up for surfing, but lousy for rain and snow production in CA - which is what we've basically had for the past 2.5 weeks. Storms out in the far West Pac will send swell for later in the week and basically keep things in the mid size range. NW winds hacking it today, but the winds should turn more favorable later this week, perhaps starting Wednesday morning. Beyond, the pattern may shift as we move more into February with the stormtrack moving closer to CA and perhaps brining us some needed rain. For now, the next 10 days look dry. Check the winds each morning. Cya in the water.
at 8:08 AM
Friday, January 25, 2013
Another round of long period swell is on the way for Saturday and Sunday. Northern buoys are already showing 7-8 ft at 20 seconds. Swell should fill in overnight and be solid by the afternoon - deepwater likely 7-10ft periods 15-18 seconds. Another weather system may brush the northern half of the state, but rainfall looks light, if anything even falls south of the GG. Winds have increased from the north/northwest behind the front. High pressure builds in and it looks like we're going to stay high and dry for an extended period again. This should bring a return to AM offshore winds next week. Plenty of swell on tap, check the winds each morning. Even though we have north/northwest winds forecast, it might be offshore for the morning sessions Sat/Sun, but looking unlikely. Cya in the water.
at 1:17 PM
Tuesday, January 22, 2013
East winds still blowing this AM with solid swell hanging around at 6ft 17 sec from 280+. Winds will change to southwest later today as rain returns to the region tonight and Wednesday, especially for the North Bay. Unsettled weather will return for the weekend, so winds are going to be variable for the next few days. Surf will increase some more on Wednesday, and then crank back up Thursday, Friday - back into the 8-10ft deepwater range. Plenty of surf for the next five days, just check the winds. Cya in the water.
at 10:08 AM
Friday, January 18, 2013
Papa Buoy has gone off, still reporting but floating adrift somewhere in the North Pacific. CA Buoy still out - we've got no window to incoming swell trains until they hit our far northern coast. Certainly were a few forerunner sets in the water this am - and look for that to increase later today. Surf should be quite solid by Saturday - but long lulls. Sunday will be quite large, again, long lulls. Perfect conditions all weekend long. Go surf. Cya in the water.
at 10:38 AM
Thursday, January 17, 2013
Probably everyone knows we have a very large swell inbound for the weekend. Should see super long period forerunners late Friday night into Saturday - we're talking energy 5-6ft deepwater in the 25-27 sec band - quite high and unusual. That type of energy will really jump when it shoals on Bay Area beaches. Saturday, size will continue up all day - afternoon 8-10 ft deepwater - 18-20 seconds - maxing Sunday at 15-20 ft, long periods and long lulls, since the swell source was very far away. Conditions should be close to perfect with light to variable/offshore winds as high pressure camps out over the Western US. Good conditions will continue into the early part of next week. Cya in the water.
at 11:11 AM
Sunday, January 13, 2013
Nice week ahead. Mornings should feature light to offshore winds almost all week with surf on the small side pretty much through the period. Very cold temps the next two mornings, then things should start to moderate mid week. Rain stays out of the forecast through the next seven days. Models are hinting at perhaps a major shift in the weather pattern beyond that, as an active storm pattern looks to set up with possible subtropical systems moving in from the Pacific. More on that next weekend. Until then, enjoy the small clean surf. Cya in the water.
at 6:01 PM
Friday, January 11, 2013
North winds the rule this weekend, lighter winds perhaps on Sunday and into next week. Steep angled northwest mid period swell - 8-10 ft at 11-13 seconds will start to fade out late Saturday, smaller surf on Sunday. Might find some place protected. Cold air temps overnight and am - water temp is now 52 degrees after all the wind offshore. Not a great weekend for surf, but if you look for it you might get lucky some place. cya in the water.
at 11:36 PM
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
West/northwest mid period swell continues this morning at 7-9 ft at 11-12 seconds from 310. Winds are east nearshore, northwest at the offshore buoys. Water temps have been dropping for a few days now, hovering around 53. Those temps will likely drop a few more degrees as a very cold airmass from Alaska drops into Northern California starting tomorrow night. Slight chance of rain, snow down to 1500ft and northwest winds will be the rule through the weekend. We will continue to see moderate size waves from the northwest through the week - biggest Thursday and Friday when heights jump back up in the 6-10ft deepwater range. Smaller surf for Saturday and Sunday. Very large tides again the next few mornings so be aware of that if you're hitting it early. Find protection from the winds and you'll find waves. Cya in the water.
Friday, January 4, 2013
Moderate size northwest continues today with deepwater swell in the 8-10 ft range at 12 seconds. Swell will fade some tomorrow (4-8 ft deepwater) and then jump back up again on Sunday (10-13ft deepwater). Last day of offshore flow, then a weather system comes ashore Saturday (late) with rain well into Sunday. Winds should change to south/southeast at some point Saturday. Maybe late enough to allow a morning go out. Sunday winds will switch behind the front, w/nw. High pressure looks to quickly rebuild for next week, so we might see renewed offshore flow with decent size swell continuing from the North Pacific. It's been a great run of surf, that wont change. Just keep an eye on the winds as they're going to be variable over the next 36-48 hours. Cya in the water.
at 8:25 AM