Friday, November 16, 2012
Weekend Forecast - Swell and Storms
Low pressure is moving onshore this morning from our West, with light rain and south winds ramping up. Steep storm swell from the southwest will follow. At the same time, a cold low pressure system is dropping south out of the Gulf of Alaska which will be our rain maker for Saturday and Saturday night. This storm has also whipped up a long period north swell which will start Saturday. This swell should peak over the weekend with deepwater heights in the 8-12ft range with periods in the 14-15 sec range. Angle of approach 299 +. Problem will be the winds - southeast today, turning to the south/southwest tomorrow and increasing in intensity during the day. So only spots protected from southerly winds will be rideable. Everything else will be a junk fest. Plenty to ride if you know where to look. Cya in the water.
at 7:34 AM