Tuesday, September 20, 2011

20 ft at 15 seconds.....

Papa Buoy - 600 miles offshore just starting to show our incoming northwest swell - a few hours in so far in the 17-20 ft range (deepwater).  Solid.  Size will degrade on the way in - but still thinking we'll see deepwater swell in the 8-12ft range on Thursday.  Long period forerunners late Wednesday (evening probably).  Fog is returning - today was sick at the beach - if you had a chance to get some.  Might have been the last good warm day at the coast as it looks like the fog/onshore winds will slowly return by Thursday - and increase over the weekend.  Models have backed off on the rain chances late next weekend - but still not completely - complex pattern out in the Pacific and things may still get wet.  By the weekend it should be much cooler at the coast.  Plenty of large swell on tap for Thursday  - into Friday.  Check the winds.  cya in the water.

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