Monday, May 16, 2011
Winter returns - Mix of North/South swells this week
Very strong late season storm ramping up offshore and about to bring some decent rains to our region starting this afternoon. Showers will last on and off into Wednesday. Winds are light s/se right now - but forecast to really blow out of the south later as the front comes in. We have northwest windswell in the water - 5-6 ft at 10 sec (deepwater). Look for swell to increase from the south Wednesday - forerunners in the 2-3 at 21 sec range - from about 180. Many spots will not gather this swell due to the angle of approach - so keep that in mind. Swell will really start to fill in on Friday/Saturday - Friday look for 4-5 at 17 from 180 - Saturday 3-4 at 16 from 180+. South on tap for Sunday and Monday - but fading. At the same time - we'll have a north swell in the water - starting Friday 6-7 at 13 from 298 - continuing through Sat/Sun at 4-5 at 13 from 291. Winds are going to be highly unpredictable most of the week - varying between south and west/north/northwest. My advice is to check daily and see what's on tap. We're in a pretty dynamic weather pattern at the moment and there will be windows for good surf. Cya in the water.
at 12:04 PM