Thursday, January 27, 2011

Back to some rain, onshores this weekend....

Our nice run of high pressure induced offshores - will come to an end Friday through Sunday.  Low pressure currently out in the Pacific will bring rain by Sunday.   Winds will be out of the west on Friday (maybe variable in AM) and then WSW on Saturday and WNW on Sunday.  Deepwater swell will come up again Sat/Sun in the 10ft range.  Surf is on the larger side today at north/northwest facing breaks - 8-10 ft deepwater swell.  Look for surf to fade just a bit tomorrow and then go back up.  cya in the water.

Monday, January 24, 2011

More of the same really......

Surfed out yet?  Well maybe by the end of this week.....Super clean conditions to continue through the end of January.  Offshores, above normal temps and swell.  Current WNW is winding down today - but plenty of size still about at north and west facing breaks.  Slow fade tomorrow before the next WNW winds up to close out our week.  Look for building overhead sets during the day Wednesday - and then double/triple overhead on Thursday into Friday - maybe down a notch on Friday.  High pressure in full control - it's been almost a month without rain and no change expected for the next 10 days.  We have a summer time high pressure dome over us and it's going to take a huge amount of energy to displace.  cya in the water.

Friday, January 21, 2011


IT'S MACKING.  Swell has come in big, long period.  Winds are offshore.  Grab the jet skiis and head for the Outer Bars! Ha!  Anything protected will be sick all day.  Tomorrow looks just as big - maybe bigger.  Ditto for Sunday.  Offshore winds look the rule.  Tell the wife/girlfriend you'll see her Monday.  cya in the water.

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Winds turned offshore - Big Swell for the Weekend

Quick update and more detail tomorrow - large XXL swell inbound for us this weekend.  Keep an eye on what it does in Hawaii today and tomorrow - extra, extra large for them.  Swell is coming a long way so there will be lulls and early on, very long period stuff.  Looks like the bulk of it hit will hit Saturday/Sunday.  Winds have been very hard to nail - but offshore today and that trend (at least for the AM sessions) should continue.  Warm temps, high pressure, La Nina.  Plenty of swell still around today from our prior event - building long period energy tomorrow.  cya in the water.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Week Ahead

Complex weather pattern overhead - east winds advecting Tule Fog from the Central Valley into the Bay Area - and n/northwest winds blowing further offshore.  Look for more dense fog the next morning or two - and then by mid week high pressure will grow stronger, and move into the Great Basin which should mix out the junk.  Large west swell charges in here on Tuesday with surf in the double/triple overhead range (10-15ft deepwater) - at northwest facing breaks.  Fading a tad Wednesday, down to 8-12 ft and fades further on Thursday/Friday.  Sheltered spots are probably going to be the cleanest with this weather pattern we're stuck in.  No rain in sight - high pressure in control and looks to stay that way through the week.  Enjoy your day off - cya in the water.

Friday, January 14, 2011

Good Times Ahead - Plenty of Swell

West swell filling in - presently at 3.4 at 14 at 290.  Size will continue to increase through the weekend - with Saturday and Sunday featuring overhead waves - double overhead at times at the north facing breaks on Sunday and into Monday.  The rain is over, and it looks like it wont rain again in the month of January.  La NIna is in full control - and a dry January is very typical of a strong La Nina pattern.  Good for surfers - offshore winds/light morning winds look the norm for the next seven days or more.  The swell machine is positioned out in the West Pacific - low pressure pumping out longer period west swells for the next few days.  So definitely a good time to get some. **UPDATE FOR WINDS - could see some very light west/northwest winds the next couple mornings - so i think protected spots might be cleanest - but certainly check winds in the AM before you go out.  cya in the water.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Week Ahead

Northwest winds never fully developed at the coast over the weekend and remained well offshore.  Winds this morning are still blowing from the east as a new, long period west/northwest swell fills in at 4-6 ft at 17 from 310.  Conditions should be clean this morning.  We do have a weak weather system moving in for Tuesday into Wednesday with very light rain forecast.  Look for decent conditions all week with small surf on tap.  Next decent shot of swell will be Friday when things will move back into the head to overhead range as a new swell comes in with really fine conditions forecast.  All n all - looks like a nice run of small surf and favorable winds.  cya in the water.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

10ft at 17 from 300 - Weekend Outlook

Powerful, long period west/northwest swell charging tonight.  Filled in all afternoon and will peak tomorrow with overhead surf at most spots while top northwest facing breaks will go triple overhead at times.  Winds are still offshore, but i think tomorrow morning will be our last offshore AM for a few days as northwest winds are expected to come up in the afternoon as the ridge of high pressure that has given us all these great days at the beach breaks down and the storm track starts to take a more zonal approach to Northern/Central CA.  No rain over the weekend, but it's in the forecast starting again next week.  Look for our current swell to wind down on Saturday (still size in the AM) and also look for rising short period windswell as northwest winds will blow Saturday/Sunday.  Sunday looks pretty iffy with fading swell, windswell and northwest winds.  We might see a return to offshore winds early next week until the pattern breaks down and rain develops.  So, i'd say get out tomorrow morning and find some place protected on Saturday morning.  Watch football on Sunday.  cya in the water.

Monday, January 3, 2011

Great Week of Surf Ahead

High pressure covers the region - and we'll stay dry right through next weekend.  Look for offshore winds each morning.  Old WNW swell is winding down as a new swell is starting to show way up north.  Look for solid double overhead sets by tomorrow afternoon at northwest facing breaks.  This swell from 285-310 will peak Wednesday with even bigger sets at northwest facing breaks.  Swell will fade a tad on Thursday, as morning conditions remain ultra clean - and then another WNW swell will begin to charge in.  This swell will be a bit bigger, especially on Friday with double/triple overhead sets.  This looks like the best run of weather and waves we've had in quite a while - so get out and enjoy it.  cya in the water.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Papa Buoy 27 ft at 15 seconds - Happy New Year

Papa Buoy peaked last evening - 27 ft at 15 sec - that's Sunday's/Monday's swell inbound.  Winds are east - southeast - with more rain forecast tonight.  Winds should remain east/southeast on Sunday.  Expect double/triple overhead tomorrow at northwest facing breaks as the first significant swell in a while churns ashore tomorrow.  cya in the water.