Monday, November 30, 2009

Clean conditions and size through the week...

Epic conditions look to continue right through the week with offshores and solid size - especially at the NW facing breaks. Minor fluctuations each day - but plenty of overhead stuff on tap - then look for size to really jump back up this coming Thursday into Friday with more of that 8-12 ft - occasionally 15ft all day Friday. Enjoy it - because models are hinting that this El Nino is finally going to flex it's muscle by late next weekend and give us an extended run of storms/rain through the following Wednesday. Until then, with storms all the way across the North Pacific - the surf will stay strong for the next 7-10 days and probably beyond. Cya in the water.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Thanks 2Mile Surf Shop

Don't spend your money in 2mile Surf Shop in Bolinas. I heard this weekend that the new owner of 2mile - who also owns a surf shop in Downtown Petaluma, is "outing" the last remaining secret spots on the West Marin Coast. Bolinas locals confirmed that they've heard the owner on the phone giving directions to people that most likely shouldn't be venturing out of Bolinas to begin with. It's bad enough that Bolinas has been taken over by every imaginable wave craft and surfer within a 100 mile radius, now you have some fucking kook telling everyone where the last remaining spots are so they can bring their 10 ft surf tech foamies into those line ups. Not sure how the rest of you feel about this - but I think we should allow people the opportunity to "discover" new spots on their own, through trial and error and some local knowledge. That's how I've found any new spot for myself on the CA coast over the past 30 years or so - from San Diego to points far north of San Francisco. And to all you surf shops giving group lessons as well as private lessons - some words of advice - teach your students some basic rules of the road before allowing them into the water - like look over your shoulder and dont drop in on people, if you're paddling out paddle inside a surfer who is up and riding on a wave. Do not try to beat him or her to the shoulder of the wave - you'll lose that race most everytime. You guys are ruining our spots with your lack of respect and common courtesy. You want to make money giving lessons - that's fine. You want to run a surf shop and make some cash - good for you. How about using your head and respect the people that live in the area, and the surfers that have been at these spots for a long time.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Monday, November 23, 2009

Offshores and swell most of this week

Morning - really nice conditions ahead for the next 3-4 days. Offshore winds are set up and should continue right through Thanksgiving Day. There is a weak front scheduled to blow through late Thursday, and then dry conditions should take over behind it for the weekend. Look for a longer period NW swell to begin showing today and peak Tuesday. From 300-320 - and a bit smaller than this past weekends swell. Looking ahead to potentially a much bigger swell for the 26th and 27th - with more West in it - 275-300. This could be in the double - triple overhead range for Friday into the weekend. So, should be pretty epic for the next couple days with the offshores and plenty of waves for the next seven days and beyond. Cya in the water and Happy Thanksgiving.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Nice Dawn Patrol This AM.....

Look for large swell to start impacting our coast tomorrow afternoon through Saturday. Deepwater swell heights around 15-17 ft. Good size storm comes in Friday - out of here by Saturday morning, with light north winds forecast for Saturday. Should be plenty of surf all weekend long - just check those winds before heading out.
cya in the water.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

The Dead Seal Sessions Vol 1

To Be continued.......thanks for the pic Shafer! I think I know what comes next.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Big Swell and Weather headed our way

Rain chances begin tomorrow in the North Bay, with south winds starting up in the afternoon ahead of the front. Look for another strong weather system to come ashore Friday bringing rain to the entire region. We have a big low pressure system spinning in the Gulf of Alaska - as such look for a series of big WNW swells over the next 7-10 days. First of these is on the rise already to our north and look for overhead surf later Tuesday. Wednesday look for even bigger waves - double overhead plus at NW facing spots, holds Thursday and then an even bigger shot for Friday into Saturday. Right now Wednesday morning looks marginal wind wise - maybe good for am AM sesh - and Thursday, the winds potentially could be even lighter in the morning with good conditions. South winds and bad weather Friday/Saturday. Basically we're gonna have a lot of swell, but highly changeable conditions over the next week - so keep an eye on the winds and know which spots will work under different conditions. cya in the water.

Friday, November 13, 2009

Weekend Forecast

Light NW winds this morning will probably continue on Saturday morning. Look for a change to a NE/offshore wind possibly for Sunday AM. Look for ongoing WNW windswell in the 11-12 sec range - with head high to sets a few feet overhead at NW facing breaks Saturday. Look for more size on Sunday and then bigger still with a new NW swell inbound for Mon/Tues. I'm also tracking a big storm complex due middle of next week - potentially sending in a large long period WNW swell, but also a storm with it. More on that Monday. get some this weekend and cya in the water.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Surf Check

Like this shot of the bros checking the surf this past Saturday morning. Good times.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Yeah, it's bigger than it looks....

Big Monday, Ocean Beach. Drove by this morning after dropping some friends at the airport - it was big, perfect, offshore. I mean very large. For the 3 guys out at Judah, I salute you. Not sure what you had for breakfast to make you paddle out - but good on you brothers. North end of the beach almost looked manageable, some guys suiting up - maybe 1.5 to dble overhead. Not like the center of the beach which still had small office buildings rolling ashore. Look for things to stay large most of this week, thru next weekend and into the first part of next week. Winds don't look horrible until possibly Thursday when we get a NW blow after this big low pressure system in the Gulf of AK finally moves out. Also as reported by Surfline over the weekend - Eric Geiselman's shark encounter north of Santa Cruz. Hey Eric - pretty sure that was a big elephant seal that bumped your ass - otherwise you'd have a few staples and teeth marks in the board. Welcome to Nor Cal. cya in the water.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Monster Swell now for the weekend

From the NWS:

It's gonna be a big one. Winds look like they might shift to the N/NW and remain on the lighter side after frontal passage on Thursday/Friday. So protected spots might be the call. Anywhere is going to be big on this swell, especially with the long period. More to come.....

Monday, November 2, 2009


The biggest swell so far of the Fall headed our way starting this coming Friday. Models are forecasting a deep water swell train of 14-19 feet at 16-17 seconds from 302!! We have a change in our weather as well with a series of low pressure systems progd to swing into CA from Thursday thru the weekend. Before then, pretty epic long period energy from Lupit winding down thru tomorrow - well overhead today and clean offshores. Look for a repeat on Tuesday with offshore winds and dropping swell. I think the wind shift will really take shape starting around Thursday night - swinging more to a storm direction SSW as the storm fronts start to knock on our door. As for that upcoming weekend swell - Friday will start large - 10-11ft at 17, Saturday and Sunday - uber large at 18-19 ft at 17, "dropping" some Monday to 15-16 ft at 16. Still big next Tuesday. I will try to dial in the winds and re confirm swell size mid week. Until then, enjoy some clean offshore mornings over the next couple days. cya in the water.